home » Repair » Homemade workbench for circular saw DP 140 sizes. Making a table for a circular saw with your own hands - instructions and installation. Additional Important Information

Homemade workbench for circular saw DP 140 sizes. Making a table for a circular saw with your own hands - instructions and installation. Additional Important Information

The household often lacks a circular saw, especially if major renovations or construction are underway. Not everyone can afford industrial products - they are too expensive. But you can make a circular saw yourself, using materials that are available in the household.

Design - main components, their purpose

A do-it-yourself stationary circular saw is created with advancement in several possible directions:

adapting existing hand tools using the motor and circular saw for new capabilities;
improvement of industrial products to expand functionality;
assembly of individual parts, manufactured mainly in-house.

A stationary circular machine includes several main components: a table, a shaft, a motor and some others, the characteristics of which are not so important.

The table is used for fastening woodworking mechanisms. It can be assembled entirely from metal, which is preferable, especially for machines with a high-power engine. Wood also makes good circular tables. But it is necessary to take into account that the tabletop should be covered with a sheet of metal, otherwise the wood will soon wear out. Tables must be very rigid and stable, capable of withstanding considerable load during work. The surface is made perfectly flat; protective shields must be installed above the rotating parts.

For a homemade circular machine, a washing machine motor is quite suitable. Portable tools are less suitable: their commutator motors are designed only for short-term work. They have very high speeds, low efficiency, and are afraid of clogging. You can use a three-phase electric motor, but if the household does not have 380 V, you will need to purchase capacitors to make it work on 220 V.

The most critical component is the shaft. Use a ready-made one, if available, or machine it from round metal. The work on the lathe is performed in one setup, then the assembly with the working parts is checked for centering. Even minimal runout is unacceptable, otherwise during work it will become stronger, at which it is unacceptable to work. Seats are provided on the shaft: for a circular saw and for pulleys on the other side. You can also make grooves for planing knives.

Main parameters - calculation of power, speed, gear

The characteristics of the circular saw, the engine and the maximum thickness of lumber that can be cut are interconnected. The maximum speed for which it is designed is indicated on the purchased circular disk. The number of revolutions transmitted by the engine to the shaft should be less. The engine power affects the maximum permissible saw tooth diameter. The diameter must be at least three times the thickness of the material, otherwise sawing will be difficult. It is believed that to cut materials 100 mm thick, you need a motor of at least 1 kW of power.

The transmission is made only by a V-belt - if foreign objects get under the saw, the material jams, the belt slips on the pulleys. Injuries in such cases are practically eliminated. It is important to choose the right gear ratio. We take into account two indicators: engine speed and the maximum permissible speed of the circular saw. We calculate the required pulley diameters. A pulley with a large diameter is installed on the engine, and a smaller one on the circular shaft to increase the number of revolutions.

The revolutions of the shaft with a circular saw are as many times greater than the engine revolutions as the diameter of its pulley is smaller than the diameter of the pulley on the engine.

Woodworking machine - a capital product for the home

To work with wood in large volumes, it is better to have a machine that allows you to cut the material, plan it, and select a quarter. A fairly powerful electric motor and a rigid table are required. We present a structure made of steel angle and sheet steel. It provides a cutting depth of 60 mm; you can plan boards 200 mm wide. A three-phase motor of 1.1 kW, 2700 rpm is used. To connect to 220 V, capacitors are required.

1 – machine frame; 2 – panel; 3 – starter; 4 – device for height adjustment; 5.7 – work table of two halves; 6 – base; 8 – engine; 9 – platform; 10 – M10 studs; 11 – circular disk; 12 – shaft; 13 – stops of the lifting mechanism; 14 – driven pulley; 15 – belt; 16 – drive pulley; 17 – switch.

The work table has dimensions of 700×300 mm. In the drawing we see that the height of the entire structure is 350 mm. The height is not sufficient for comfortable work; the circular saw will have to be installed on an additional platform; it weighs only 35 kg. You can increase the length and width, increase the height up to 1200 mm. We adjust the remaining sizes to fit them, but the design features remain unchanged.

First we make the bed frame from steel corners 25x25 mm. If we are not going to increase the height, we make another similar lower frame. For a frame with a higher height, first we weld four legs from the same corners to the upper frame, and then we tie them at a height of 15–20 cm from the bottom. The lower frame has grooves for the engine platform locking bolts. Two studs are welded to the back side of the platform, which go into the holes on the back of the lower frame. By tightening the studs, we tighten the belts, then we lock the platform by tightening the nuts on the studs that go into the grooves.

To adjust the height of the table in relation to the saw, we use a simple lifting mechanism. It consists of racks, in the upper part of which we cut grooves at an angle of 45°. A total of eight racks are needed - four on each side. We weld them to the frame with grooves located in a mirror image. We attach cross members to the outer posts. We drill holes in the middle of each of them and weld nuts. Threaded shafts will move along them to regulate the lift.

Their ends rest against racks welded to frames assembled from 75x50 mm corners. We weld studs into them on the side opposite the grooves for the adjustment mechanism. The table consists of two equal halves and is attached to the frames with countersunk bolts. The adjustment mechanism works like this:

loosen the nuts on the racks;
we turn the screw, which presses on the stop, raising or lowering the table;
tighten the stud nuts;
We perform a similar adjustment for the second half of the working surface.

The design can be simplified without installing an adjusting shaft. Raise and lower the table manually. If you assemble the table not from two halves, but from one piece, you will only need four racks for the lifting mechanism.

Hand-held circular saw - turning into a stationary one

It’s easy to make a stationary one from a hand-held circular saw, expanding its capabilities. The first thing you need is a table. A convenient material is Finnish plywood, which, unlike ordinary plywood, is laminated - the workpieces glide well over the surface during processing. It is thick enough to withstand a lot of weight, moisture resistant, and easy to process. You can use ordinary 20 mm plywood, but you just need to paint it, or better yet, cover it with sheet steel or textolite.

You need to understand that the depth of cut will decrease by the thickness of the cover. You will need a large diameter disk so as not to reduce functionality compared to a portable tool. We make the dimensions of the tabletop sufficient to ensure that the workpiece fits in width. It should be added that on a wide table you can additionally strengthen an electric plane and a jigsaw, which will make the machine universal.

Using drawings and explanations, it is not difficult to make additional accessories for a circular saw that will expand its capabilities.

We mark a rectangle of the required dimensions on a sheet of plywood, cut it out, and process the edges. Using the sole, we apply a hand-held circular saw to the surface and mark the attachment points with a pencil. We make a slot for the circular saw. You can slightly deepen the attachment point using a milling cutter, but not more than 10 mm, so as not to weaken the tabletop. This manufacturing method will allow you to bring the cutting depth closer to that indicated in the circular saw’s passport.

From the boards we make a frame (tsars), which we install from below to strengthen the structure. We fasten four boards into a box, glue them to the tabletop, securing them with clamps. We screw self-tapping screws into the boards across the table. We countersink the holes for them from above so that the heads of the screws are hidden. We attach the legs to the frames of the stationary saw, preferably with bolts, washers and nuts. The table should be provided with additional rigidity, so we make spacers at the bottom of the legs.

We make a limit bar equal to the length of the working surface. In it we drill two grooves perpendicular to the disk, in which the bar will move and be fixed at a certain distance from the saw blade. It remains to make changes to the control system: we fix the control button in the on state with electrical tape. We install an outlet connected to the network on the drawer. We install a switch in the gap in the wire going to the saw.

Some aspects of the execution of homemade devices

No matter how well a circular machine is made, individual errors can lead to its performance being limited. This concerns, at first glance, seemingly trifles. Let's start with the bearings for the shaft. Installing conventional ones is justified if the machine is used from time to time. For a homemade device with permanent use, it is better to install self-aligning bearings. They consist of two rows of balls and are adjusted by tightening the clamping nut. Be sure to install a cover to protect against dust and chips.

On the working surface we apply a scale in centimeter increments. This will make woodworking much easier when determining the width of the cut. Many people neglect to install a protective shield over the disk, but in vain - treatment for chips getting into the eye or in more serious situations is more expensive.

When working with various materials, it is often necessary to adjust the speed of the circular saw. A homemade design, as a rule, does not have the ability to regulate engine speed. There is only one way out - the use of pulleys of different diameters. They are installed on the motor shaft. If you decide to order pulleys from a turner, immediately make a solid pulley with two or three different diameters.

Many people want to install a three-phase electric motor on a sawing machine, without having 380 V. They will need capacitors designed for a minimum operating voltage of 600 V of paper or oil-paper type.

We calculate the capacitance of the capacitors based on the power of the electric motor: for 1 kW - 100 µF for the working capacitor Av. We take the capacity of the starting joint twice as large. The SB trigger is a button that automatically returns to its original position. Startup is simple: turn on SQ, press SB for a couple of seconds. After starting, the button is released, as soon as the engine picks up speed, you can cut.

A circular saw is an excellent maneuverable tool with high performance. However, like all tools, the saw has some disadvantages. For example, you may have problems when you want to cut large pieces of wood. In such a situation, a special table made by yourself will help you. This design will allow you to easily and quickly cut large parts without unnecessary problems.

Selection of tools and materials

At the beginning of work, you need to make sure that you always have all the necessary raw materials at hand, as well as a set of tools that would be useful throughout all the actions. To create a table you need the following materials:

plywood about 2-3 centimeters thick or an identical piece of chipboard;
wooden blocks measuring 40x40 millimeters;
metal building corners – 12-15 pieces;
self-tapping screws of different lengths and bolts of different classifications;
glue used in carpentry;
means for treating products from moisture and rust;
outdoor socket;
cable;
switch.

This set of materials is necessary for a standard structure of ordinary dimensions with an area of slightly more than one square meter. You can work on such a table with almost any hand-held circular saw, except for tools with small disks, since when attached to the tabletop, the cutting depth sags by an average of 1-2 centimeters.

The following tools will be useful to you for this work:

marker or thick pencil;
tape measure, metal ruler, angle;
jigsaw;
screwdriver;
Grinder;
drill;
sandpaper.

Manufacturing process

It is quite simple to create a multifunctional design for an electric circular saw with your own hands, however, it is necessary that the manufacturing process proceed strictly according to certain stages. Strict adherence to the advice is necessary to avoid any problems or difficulties.

First of all, every master must create a drawing and plan for the future product. It is much easier to carry out work according to drawings, and the risks of producing something incorrectly or of poor quality are reduced. At the planning stage, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the future structure as clearly as possible.
After creating a plan and a rough sketch of the product, as well as preparing all the necessary materials and a set of tools, we begin manufacturing the table body. Using a plane, we align all the edges of the block. Then we assemble a base from sheet material and leveled bars, the dimensions of which were determined at the planning stage. The working surface area is usually about 1-1.5 square meters. All parts are fastened to each other using bolts and screws. At the end of the work we get a box without top and bottom parts.

Next comes the manufacture of a tabletop for the sawing machine; it is cut out of plywood or a sheet of chipboard based on the size of the frame. The countertop should be the same area or slightly larger. The main thing is that it does not overhang the body to one side. If the table top is made of non-laminated material, then it should be sanded and trimmed. Next, using a ruler and a pencil on the tabletop, mark the places where the electric saw is attached to it, as well as the top of the table to the main body.
The next step is to cut the hole for the saw itself. To do this, measurements are taken of the support shoe of the sawing machine, which will subsequently be used on this structure. On the reverse side of the tabletop, appropriate markings are made, which will accurately determine the mounting location and the area over which it is necessary to make a cutout for the circular disk. To accurately apply markings, it is better to draw axes that connect exactly in the center of the plywood sheet. After determining the axes and making precise markings, you need to cut out a hole for the disk, and also drill holes for attaching the saw shoe.

The circular saw is attached to the plywood tabletop from the reverse (inner side). To do this, you need to make 4 holes in the shoe of the saw itself, their diameter should be approximately 1 centimeter. Then you should completely level the saw and match all the markings so that the tool is level, all the marks and holes correspond to each other, and the disc fits freely into the central hole of the tabletop. In order for the saw to be securely attached to the table, it is necessary to use special plowshare bolts with a countersunk head; the head of such bolts should be deeply immersed in the sole of the tool and not stick out.
Then the saw is put aside and the assembly of the table continues. In order for the structure to be stable. special attention should be paid to her legs. Better stability of the structure will be provided by legs diverging downward. They are secured with large bolts and nuts.

The length of the legs is determined individually, in accordance with the height of the person who will work at the table. Ideally, the tabletop, and, accordingly, the saw itself should be located just above the master’s belt.

The next step is to attach the tabletop to the body. At a distance of about 3 centimeters from the edge, you need to make holes in the corners of the plywood, then drill holes in the corner bars for further fastening bolts in them. Next, the parts are connected using M8 steel fittings.
After the structure is assembled, it is necessary to attach a special switch to the table, which will regulate the switching on and off of the saw with an electric motor. To do this, we cut a hole in the housing for the switch and secure it with bolts, special glue or construction screed. The switch must provide electrical power to the saw itself, which means it must be connected to any electrical source in your workshop using a cable. It is attached from the bottom of the tabletop using construction fasteners.
Then you can make special stops. First, a transverse beam is made; it greatly simplifies working with the structure. It is made mainly from plywood or chipboard. First you need to cut out 2 strips, equal in length to the width of the table, the second side should be about 100 millimeters, the corners of the strips must be rounded.

Then the blanks are polished and fastened with self-tapping screws at a slight angle, and a metal corner is screwed inside. After this, the strips are attached to the table on movable furniture rails, which will allow you to move these stops along the entire table.
If you wish, you can make various additions to this design, it all depends on your skills. Some craftsmen remove the safety guard and all the devices for adjusting the tilt of the disk, this allows you to get an additional few millimeters of cut. Some people replace the factory platform with a rotating platform of their own making; with a professional approach, this also provides a number of advantages in work.
The manufacturing of the structure is completed by the stage of processing and preparation for operation. The entire table should once again be sanded, wiped and coated with varnish or special means to ensure durability of use and repel moisture and rust.

Installing a circular saw into a homemade table

After making the main body, An electric saw is being installed on a makeshift table.

At the stages of manufacturing the table structure, all the necessary holes were cut out in the tabletop.
When installing a stationary saw, it is necessary to perfectly adjust the inclination of the tool, otherwise the sawing of wooden parts will not be done well. The first step is to install the tool on the finished tabletop in all the grooves and determine whether the slope needs to be changed. If the angle does not correspond to the desired one, you will have to adjust it using special bolts; this is the easiest option. Or you can cut out special blocks that will be attached to the tabletop, and a power saw will be attached on top of them at the desired angle.
If the tool is installed correctly in place, all the holes align, you need to put and attach the sole to the table with bolts and tighten them from the inside using nuts with spring washers.
After the hand-held circular saw is installed, you need to take a block slightly larger than those used to adjust the angle of inclination, and secure it to the tabletop in the place where the saw platform was marked.

This block is needed so that after removing the circular saw from the table, you can build it exactly in the same place without using any additional markings.

Before you start using an electric saw on a table, you should check the blade of the saw itself using a square, since some unscrupulous manufacturers do not install the blade exactly at an angle of 90 degrees, as a result of which the cuts end up beveled.
If during work you plan to use the table also to store tools on it, then the dimensions of the tabletop should be larger than a square meter in area.
For manufacturing it is better to use high-quality and durable materials, otherwise the table will not last long.
The table can be supplemented with anything you like, for example, some manage to attach a special vacuum cleaner or a riving knife with protection for the disk to it, so that shavings and residues from cutting wood do not fly to the sides.
Select a place to install the table in advance, and also make sure that the floor where the table will be installed is level.
If you have the desire and certain skills, you can make a folding tabletop or a lifting table, but this will require more time and materials.
If the table wobbles or vibrates during operation, adjust the height of the legs using suitable pieces of rubber.

Contents:

Circular-type machines belong to the class of specialized processing mechanisms, without which no well-equipped home workshop can do.

This example of woodworking equipment is especially relevant in the conditions of a country house and country house.

When assessing the possibilities of purchasing ready-made equipment, you will encounter a number of problems associated with the inconvenience of handling cheap stand-alone circular saws and the prohibitive cost of professional processing equipment.

The only correct approach to solving this problem is to make a circular saw with your own hands, using materials and equipment that are commercially available.

Note! In order to save money, in small-sized models of machines, an autonomous circular saw, which is rigidly mounted on the bed, is most often used as a cutting tool.

Using a homemade machine, you can saw boards, plane slabs, and also make bars of the desired cross-section.

If desired, you can significantly expand the functionality of your product by providing it with the ability to process wood using an electric planer.

Design requirements

Before starting work, it will be necessary to prepare a small sketch, which should indicate not only the location of all the structural elements of the future machine, but also their main dimensions. When drawing such a sketch, you should take into account that your circular saw may consist of the following functional units:

bed, which serves as the basis of the entire product;
tabletops with an industrial prototype of a hand-held circular saw installed on it;
remote control panel for turning on and off the actuator (circular saw).

Small-sized tabletop circular saw

The specified composition of the machine is typical for small-sized products on a wooden frame. For capital equipment manufactured on the basis of metal profiles (angles), its diagram has a slightly different form. Such a product must include the following elements:

a base made of steel frames and brackets on which a shaft with a drive pulley is mounted in bearing pairs;
a table top with slots for the processing blade, installed on top of a metal frame and rigidly fixed to it;
a set of special drive electrical equipment located in the lower part of the frame and providing the required functionality of the device (it includes an electric motor, a starting device and a transformer-converter).

The main requirement for any type of frame is to ensure maximum reliability and stability of the structure. As options for the machine base, we will consider both frames made of metal profiles (corners) and load-bearing structures made of wood.

When familiarizing yourself with the requirements for the electrical equipment of a homemade machine, first of all, you should determine the drive power of the cutting tool (or autonomous saw), which for domestic conditions should not exceed 850 watts.

Stationary circular saw

In addition, before preparing a sketch of the future product, the technical characteristics of the equipment used should be taken into account, such as:

The depth of cut, which specifies the permissible thickness of wood pieces to be processed on your machine. This figure for industrial samples of woodworking equipment ranges from 5 to 8 cm, which is quite enough for cutting standard boards and thick plywood.

Additional information: In the event that you need to process wood blanks of greater thickness, it is necessary to provide a special lifting mechanism in the frame that allows you to change the position of the disk in height.

Before manufacturing a capital machine with a separate drive, the operating speed of the electric motor rotor should be taken into account. The choice of this parameter is determined by the lumber processing modes with which you will most often have to deal. For simple cutting of wood pieces, this figure can be relatively low, but to obtain a perfectly smooth (“clean”) cut you will need a higher rotation speed.

Important! The optimal speed for homemade cutting machines is considered to be a rotation speed not exceeding 4500 rpm. At low engine speeds, the frame can be made on the basis of a reinforced wooden frame, massive enough to prevent vibrations of the mechanism.

When drawing up a sketch, ergonomic requirements should also be taken into account, implying ease of control of the operation of the equipment, as well as safe handling. They relate to the order of the buttons on the operating panel, restricting access to the cutting blade, as well as the electrical security of the drive or individual controls.

After all possible requirements for the future machine have been taken into account, you can begin to assemble it directly.

Bed based on metal profiles (corners)

It is most convenient to make the upper part of the metal frame in the form of a rectangular frame 600 by 400 mm, welded from 25 mm corners. Pipe blanks 220 mm long are welded to the four corners of this structure (recommended pipe diameter is 17-20 mm).

The bed must ensure rigidity of the machine structure

Two longitudinal angles are fixed to the frame using bolts, used to secure the shaft in the bearing race.

The distance between the angles is determined based on the length of the shaft, and the bearings used for installation are secured to them with special clamps.

In order to give it greater stability, the lower part of the frame frame is made (welded) from 40 mm metal corners.

A closed type bearing is used to secure the working shaft.

Two jumpers made of the same material are welded across the frame, used to secure the electric motor. There is also a metal platform intended for mounting launch equipment.

Bearings are attached to the frame using special clamps

At the corners of the resulting structure, pipe blanks are welded with a length corresponding to the size of the pipes on the upper frame, but with a slightly larger diameter (23-25mm).

Closer to their edge, special clamps (wings) are made, used to clamp the lifting pipes of the upper frame, which are moved when the drive belt is tensioned.

The procedure for assembling the mechanical part of such a machine includes the following operations:

first, bearings No. 202 are taken and driven forcefully onto the working shaft;
after that, a pulley, previously turned on a lathe and having an internal groove diameter of 50 mm, is fixed on the same shaft with tension;
then at the end of the shaft a thread is cut for the bolt used to clamp the cutting tool (for more reliable fixation, paronite and metal washers can be placed under the bolt);
upon completion of this part of the work, we proceed to installing a drive manufactured on the basis of a three-phase asynchronous motor with a power of 1.5 kW (1500 rpm). A pulley with an internal groove size of approximately 80 mm is mounted on the shaft of such an engine;
at the next stage of assembling the frame, the two finished halves of the frame are connected together (in this case, pipes of a smaller diameter are inserted into larger ones);
At the end of the work, the belt is tensioned on the shaft, and then the structure is fixed in this position using special “wing” clamps.

Machine on a wooden frame

The simplest and most affordable way to make a machine bed involves using ordinary boards or thick plywood for this purpose. In this design option, the executive unit is placed directly under the table (tabletop), in which a slot of appropriate dimensions is made for the cutting blade.

The wooden frame is reliable and easy to manufacture

As an example, we will consider the option of manufacturing a frame with a height of approximately 110 - 120 cm, intended for attaching a hand-held circular saw to it. The length of a tabletop of this design can be changed within small limits at your discretion.

Note! The height of the structure can be adjusted if desired, taking into account the height of the person working on the machine. And if it is necessary to process very long boards on it, the dimensions of the tabletop can be increased to the required size. In this case, you will have to worry about installing additional support legs.

The most convenient material for making countertops is multilayer plywood with a thickness of at least 50 mm. However, other materials can be selected for these purposes (plexiglass or fiberglass slabs, for example). As for such a common material as chipboard, its use in this case is undesirable, as it does not provide sufficient surface strength.

To make a machine on a wooden base, you will need the following materials:

sheet metal preparation;
standard sheet of thick plywood;
a pair of beams with a cross section of 50×50 mm;
thick boards with a standard size of 50 x 100 mm;
steel corner required to increase the rigidity of the guides;
a circular saw;
two clamps.

In addition, you will have to stock up on the following set of tools, without which assembly of the machine is simply impossible:

classic screwdriver and electric drill;
a simple wood hacksaw or jigsaw;
measuring instruments (square, tape measure, ruler);
portable milling cutter for wood processing.

If you don’t have such a milling machine, you can use the help of friends or neighbors who have a milling machine on their farm.

Additional Information: Some home craftsmen prefer to make countertops from used kitchen tables. However, such a design will not be durable, since the source material was used for a long time in a damp room. That's why it would be wiser to manufacture all structural elements from new blanks, which at the same time will allow you to take into account your personal tastes and preferences.

Making a countertop

Work on the manufacture of this part of the equipment is carried out in the following sequence:
We start by marking a piece of plywood so that its edges are flush with the edges of the prepared sheet of iron. After marking, using a hacksaw or electric jigsaw, you can cut the plywood blank to the required size. If desired, you can process its edges using a cutter, although this is not at all necessary (the main requirement for this element is its reliability, not attractiveness).

Upon completion of these operations, the surface of the tabletop is carefully processed (rubbed) with medium-grain sandpaper.

Then, on its lower part, the location of the slot for the saw blade is preliminarily marked. To do this, it is necessary to determine the dimensions of the sole of the circular saw prepared for installation. To make measurements easier, the blade is simply removed from the saw, after which you can easily determine the dimensions of the seat.

For ease of marking the tabletop, the saw blade is removed

Upon completion of its preparation, you should take a circular saw and try it on at the installation site. If necessary, the position of its attachment points is adjusted (at the same time, the contours of the slot for the saw blade are specified).

The finished plywood table top is covered with a steel sheet attached to it using self-tapping screws. Subsequently, it will be possible to apply special markings to the working surface, allowing the position of the wood piece to be adjusted during its processing.

Frame assembly

Both transverse and longitudinal frame beams, used as stiffening ribs, are also mounted on the lower plane of the tabletop. A total of four such strips will be required:

Two transverse lintels that do not reach the edge of the tabletop by 7-9 cm on each side.
Two longitudinal bars, the size of which corresponds to the same condition (they should not reach the edges of the tabletop by about 7-9 cm).

Taking into account these restrictions, it is necessary to mark the fixation points of the longitudinal bars and crossbars, at which the latter will be attached to the tabletop using self-tapping screws of a suitable size.

When marking points, the outermost one is selected at a distance of approximately 40-50 mm from the edge of the block (in this case, the step between them should be about 23-25 cm).

Before the final assembly of the frame, through holes for self-tapping screws are drilled in all component parts (bars and table top). On the front side, the fastening elements are installed in such a way that their caps are completely hidden in the material.

To increase the strength of the future frame base, the bars adjacent to the tabletop are pre-coated with wood glue.

After assembly, the structure is temporarily fixed using clamps, which can be removed after the glue has dried.

Attaching the support legs

The table legs are made from bars of a suitable cross-section (most often the same 50x50 mm blanks are used for these purposes). The height of the supports is selected for a specific person, i.e. individually.

This should take into account the fact that it is more convenient to work on a circular saw when the tabletop is at hip level. Before their final installation, the shape of the legs is modified so that they taper towards the supporting part (the area of contact with the frame base must exceed the area of support on the floor).

To increase the rigidity and stability of the structure, steel corners can be used, which are pressed in such a way as to provide additional “strut” for the base. To secure them, special bolts with washers are used, installed with their heads facing outward.

Electrical diagram

In the capital version of the circular saw design, an autonomous drive is used, which includes an asynchronous electric motor, the windings of which are connected to the electrical network according to a triangle diagram.

Wiring diagram for an asynchronous motor of a circular machine

To control the operation and ensure automatic starting of the electric motor, the circuit provides a magnetic starter built on the basis of an electronic switch (triac) and a current transformer.

To build a control circuit for a machine on a wooden frame (an option involving the use of a hand-held circular saw), it will be enough to duplicate the on and off buttons of the mechanism, bringing them out and securing them to one of the legs of the tabletop

You will learn more about connecting the machine's electric motor from the video.

It is not difficult to make a table for a circular table with your own hands, having at your disposal a hand-held power tool from Bosch or another leading manufacturer. But the presence of a table will significantly expand the capabilities of the tool. Manual models of Bosch circular saws, like their analogues, demonstrate high performance. But maneuverability, as the main advantage of a hand-held circular saw, can turn into a disadvantage if you need to process a large volume of workpieces. This is where a homemade table comes to the rescue.

The design of the table required for a manual circular saw is quite simple, which allows you to do it yourself. A homemade platform requires a little skill and time to make;
Drawings and diagrams are not mandatory components for successfully assembling a table with your own hands;
The optimal material for making a table for a Bosch manual circular saw is metal;
When choosing a metal table for a circular machine, do not forget about the massive structure and the need to be able to work with a welding machine with your own hands;
Often the table is made by hand using wood. They are easier to assemble, which allows a beginner to make them;
A Bosch circular saw or its analogues is installed under the table top;
The disk should protrude above the tabletop. For this purpose, a special slot is provided on the surface of the table;
The lumber is moved along the table surface and cut with a circular saw cutting tool;
To increase the processing accuracy, the table can be additionally equipped with a longitudinal and angular stop;
The tabletop will take away part of the working disk, so the sawing depth of a manual circular saw will become less exactly by the thickness of the working table. This indicates the need to choose a hand-held power tool that allows you to install large-diameter saw blades;
It is recommended to make the desktop with an emphasis on strength and thinness. Metal or durable wood species are suitable for these purposes.

In many cases, it is better to start making a table with your own hands before purchasing the circular saw itself. This will allow you to optimally select equipment characteristics. For a manual circular saw that you want to machine on your desktop, the optimal power would be at least 1.2 kW. This will allow you to cut large quantities of materials efficiently and without overload.

Tools and materials

If you are unlikely to need drawings, it will not be superfluous to reinforce the knowledge acquired in this material with video lessons on assembling tables for circular tables.

To make a tabletop that turns a hand-held circular into a tabletop, you will need certain materials and tools. This list includes:

Sheet of laminated plywood. Approximate thickness dimensions - 15-20 mm;
Wooden beam. Its dimensions are 50 by 50 mm;
High quality board;
Switch;
Socket;
Electrical cable;
Glue;
Paints and varnishes;
Self-tapping fasteners;
Electric jigsaw;
Screwdriver or electric screwdriver;
Ruler;
Household drill.

Determine the sizes at your discretion. But if the tabletop circular saw is too compact in size, you will not be able to cut long workpieces with the required comfort.

When choosing sizes, focus on the parameters of the most frequently processed workpieces. The dimensions of the table must be such that the product fits completely on the tabletop. This will allow you to use a Bosch tool to cut lumber efficiently and smoothly with your own hands.

Assembling the tabletop

When everything is ready, you can start working with your own hands. Let's assume that you have already chosen the Bosch power tool itself, or preferred an analogue from a trusted manufacturer, represented by Bosch.

The approximate dimensions of the tabletop, taking into account the selected materials, are 50 by 50 by 25 centimeters. You can make the size of your table larger or smaller depending on personal preference, the size of your workshop, or the characteristics of the Bosch circular saw you are using.

Taking a laminated sheet of plywood as a basis, cut out a tabletop of the size corresponding to the selected parameters. The plywood may not be laminated, but in this case it will need to be coated with a layer of varnish. Apply markings from below so as not to spoil the appearance of the future table. Using an electric jigsaw, cut off the excess and clean the edges.
Turn the sheet over with the bottom side up and mark it for mounting the hand-held circular saw. To do this, remove the saw blade from your circular saw and place the sole of the device against the surface of the sheet. Make marks on the sheet itself and the sole for future fastenings.
Using a drill, drill the holes required for bolted connections. Screw the bolts from above through the table, and from below the structure will be held on by nuts. Here it is recommended to countersink the holes on the working side of the sheet and grind the bolt heads. They won't perform that way.
If you are going to cut material on a machine with a Bosch circular saw at different angles, the hole for the saw wheel should be made in a certain shape - an inverted trapezoid. If you plan only for smooth cutting, it is enough to cut a standard type of groove.
Do not rush to immediately cut the hole according to the markings. Take the circular saw again, attach it to the sheet, check the size matches, after which you can continue working.
Use a pencil to mark where the stiffeners will be installed. To make them, use a wooden board. The ribs are located below, retreating from the edge of the tabletop about 8-10 centimeters.
It is recommended to mount the tabletop legs to the stiffeners. To fix the ribs, use self-tapping screws, screwing them with a screwdriver in increments of 15-20 mm. It wouldn’t hurt to additionally glue everything with PVA glue. Self-tapping screws must be screwed through the top of the desktop, while recessing the heads of the fastening elements. Using long screws, do not forget to connect the stiffeners together.
Using timber or boards, cut out blanks to create the legs of your structure. The length can be 100-120 centimeters. Here you should focus on your own height, since it will be uncomfortable for a tall master to work on a low table. If the legs diverge slightly towards the bottom, this will give them greater stability. Fixation is carried out according to the bolt-nut principle. It is a good idea to use washers between them. By making a screed from timber, the desktop frame will be more durable.
You can adjust the height of the table using nuts that are screwed to the legs from below. M14 bolts are suitable for these purposes.
Now proceed directly to fixing the circular saw. Insert the disk into the made slot and secure it with the appropriate fasteners.
It is recommended to screw the socket on the inside of the table, connect the wiring to it and place the switch in a convenient but safe area. Press the on/off button onto the body of the circular saw and secure it.
Using a square pipe and screws with wing nuts, a longitudinal stop is made. Cut the pipe according to the length of the table for the circular table, drill holes for screws 30 mm from the edge of the table top. Using pieces of plywood, a pair of clamps is made.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in assembling a tabletop for a circular table. A little time and the design is ready.

Many woodworkers have a large number of different saws. Some can be worked without additional devices, but a circular one will be difficult to use manually. A table for a hand-held circular saw, made independently, is a very real way to save money and ensure comfortable cutting of a large number of materials. Moreover, it is not difficult to do it, the main thing is to draw up the drawings correctly and provide yourself with the necessary tools.

A do-it-yourself circular table made from a hand-held circular saw will provide comfort when cutting, as it will be made based on your wishes. The work surface will be of a convenient size, which is difficult to find in a store where there are mostly standard countertops. Moreover, there are situations when the need for a router table arises unexpectedly and the purchase option is completely eliminated. Don’t despair, using the advice of skilled carpenters, you can create a model that will be no worse than the store-bought version.

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Features of a circular saw table

Making a table for a circular saw with your own hands is very simple, especially if you have at least a little experience in carpentry. Experienced craftsmen can assemble it even without diagrams. The design consists of two main parts:

legs;
smooth working surface (table top).

Additional departments in the form of drawers are not required, but such projects can be created if desired.

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Remember that the saw itself must be securely fastened under the table, and only the blade remains on the surface. The hole in the table for the circular saw should be several centimeters larger than the blade so that sawdust can easily fly down without clogging the mechanisms.

A DIY miter saw table needs to be made as durable as possible. Since the greater the power of the tool, the greater the load will fall on the surface. Be sure to take this fact into account when choosing the material and location for its installation. Knowing how to make a table for a circular saw, you can save a lot of money and enjoy more convenient use of the tool.

Inventory and work process requirements

What a table for a miter saw should be like with your own hands is, of course, decided by the master himself. Mandatory requirements include:

safe and durable fastening of the saw;
flat and smooth working surface of the tabletop;
Easy access to start and stop buttons.

A homemade table can be made from wood

The stores mainly offer stainless steel products. But tables for routers and circular saws made of wood are in no way inferior to them in quality, and the service life of the material is not reduced.

You can make a table for a hand-held circular saw with your own hands using the following tools:

boards for legs and tabletops;
wood glue;
screws and screwdriver;
jigsaw;
plane.

In addition, you need a tape measure and a pencil, as well as wood varnish for protective properties.

Stages of work

A circular saw is a rather dangerous tool. The sawing table should be positioned so that the saw is exactly in the center, without shifting the center of gravity. Based on the drawn up diagrams, markings are made on the board with a pencil, and then the base is cut out with a jigsaw. After this, the resulting tabletop must be carefully sanded to make it smooth.

After the work has been done, the tabletop is turned over and markings are applied on the inside for a recess under the sole of the circular. The recesses are created using a milling cutter. The saw is installed in a homemade table, carefully fastened and tested for strength.

When making a table for a circular saw with your own hands, do not forget about the stiffeners. They significantly strengthen the structure, especially in combination with self-tapping screws.

The legs for the manual circular saw are attached last. The dimensions, as well as the height, depend on the craftsman; the main thing is to fasten them well with bolts and screws. They need to be placed slightly apart, and the strength should be controlled using the same stiffening ribs.

Working with electronics

Making a table for a circular table with your own hands using standard drawings is quite simple, but you definitely need to take care of the power supply. If the master is well versed in electronics, then the best option would be to bypass the start and stop buttons and secure them in a convenient place. A more simplified option is to tighten the start button of the circular saw and turn it on using the power cord. But this method is not very safe, since in an emergency the equipment will not be able to turn off automatically.

Safety at work

Remember that there should be no foreign objects on the table on which the cutting takes place. If a DIY circular saw becomes unbalanced, the problem should be corrected immediately.

For safety, be sure to wear safety glasses

Do not hold wooden material close to the saw blade; this is unsafe. Be sure to wear protective clothing, goggles and gloves for work. Remember that it is not enough to make a circular table with your own hands, you also need to monitor its condition in order to be safe.