Gate: what and how to make it with your own hands, drawings, options, technology. Making your own gates from classic materials Making swing gates

If the gate is the face of the house, then the gate is the smile on it. Even if it is somewhere inside and leads to the garden. Do-it-yourself gate - a welcoming and relaxed smile. Therefore, the production of this generally unpretentious product must be approached diligently and with soul.

Materials

The choice here is not so rich. Plastic fence sections, gate leaves and gates are durable, can be quite attractive and do not require preliminary excavation work, but, alas, they are not fire-resistant and do not resist vandalism: easy to stick into the ground, easy to pull out. Outside of production conditions, plastics are low-tech and labor-intensive, therefore do-it-yourself gates are most often made of wood and metal. In this case, plastic can be used as an auxiliary and finishing material, as discussed below.

Note: For gates and wickets you will also need fittings. Making it yourself (the fittings are not structurally complex) or buying it is up to the owner. What to choose wisely or take as a sample, see fig. lower right. About something in addition, if and where necessary, see further in the course of the presentation.

In general about the design

It is customary to make the entrance gate opening inward. This is necessary, first of all, for the safety of both visitors and owners: backing away from the swinging door, the guest risks getting his shoes in the mud, or even crashing onto the roadway. Also, if the gate opens outward, the hinge hinges will be on the street, which will make it easier for potential intruders. If the swing gate can be made to open only outwards, anti-burglary hinges must be installed, and either a viewing window must be made in the gate, or an intercom must be installed at the entrance.

The width of the gate leaf (leaf without hinges and locks) is taken as for interior doors– 750-1000 mm. It is impossible to narrow its blade to 600-650 mm, as for doors to utility rooms and common areas: people enter the gate wearing outerwear. If you make it wider, then accidentally unlocked, it can slam in the wind so that the hinges are turned out. The height of the gate is taken according to the height of the fence, but for the same wind reasons, no more than the height of the passage above the stairs, i.e. 1.9-2 m. Between the wicket leaf, the post on which it is hung, and other elements of the frame, a gap of 6 mm on the hinge side, 80 mm at the bottom and 2 mm at the bottom is left, taking into account, first of all, frost and snow. the remaining 2 parties.

In order not to install extra pillars, which in this case is the most labor-intensive, one of the gates is often made common with the gate: gate hinges are attached to it on one side, and gate hinges on the other. In any case, the “backbone” of this pillar should be steel, although for the opposite collar a wooden pillar is also possible. A reinforced common post is also necessary if the wicket is built into the gate. Then you need to take into account something else, see below.

Note: It is impossible to make gate pillars in the form of an asbestos-cement pipe concreted and filled with concrete, as is sometimes advised - the entire pillar turns out to be fragile. Remember - gate pillars are not piles, they are subject to rapid alternating dynamic loads and without an elastic base, the pillars will soon either crack or become loose.

If the fence posts are solid brick, then the gate posts should be laid in 1.5 bricks for gate heights up to 1.6 m and 2 bricks for higher heights, using special patterns (orders) for 3-row ligation of seams for corner fence posts, see fig. .

This task requires quite a lot of experience as a mason, but the steel embedded parts for fastening the hinges still do not always hold securely. So it would be better to make brick gate posts, folding them around a ridge of steel pipe according to a simplified masonry scheme for intermediate fence posts; The rows of masonry then simply alternate in mirror image.

Brick in this case is a more decorative material, so you can use a fragile but beautiful facing: a pipe with a diameter of up to 120 mm will fit into the central gap of the column. The mortgages, which have now become simply overlays, are connected to it with pieces of reinforcing rods by welding, see fig. on right. The locations of the mortgages and their connections with the ridge must be calculated in advance so that they fall on the masonry seams, otherwise you will have to chisel grooves in the bricks. The ridge pipe is concreted “in full”, at least 0.6 m below the standard freezing depth in the given area.

Note: In general, the erection and fastening of pillars and columns in the ground is a special branch of the construction industry. Particularly reliable concreting is required here. For gates and wickets it can be simplified using TISE technology techniques, see for example. video below. By the way, the authors’ idea is really good, but there is still no need to prime the concreted parts of the steel parts. And we will return to the gate as such.

Video: concreting pillars for gates and gates

About corrugated sheets

A gate made of corrugated sheets is good not only because of the availability of the material, the speed and manufacturability of manufacturing, but also because the corrugated steel sheet gives the canvas additional strength. It is believed that the appearance is utilitarian. However, gates with a wicket made of corrugated sheets can be improved in various ways, see below.

Wooden gates

Simple picket and rack

Gates of small height, or openwork, or located in places sufficiently protected from gusts of wind, are made of wood, so-called. frame scheme, although in truth it is not frame, but with load-bearing cladding: the entire canvas acquires design rigidity only when overhead strips are installed on the “frame”. For gates of normal sizes, the load-bearing supporting elements are made from boards (30-40) x (130-150), and the overhead strips are also made from boards (15-25) x (60-100). In this case, the “frame” is made according to a Z-shaped pattern, pos. 1 and 2 in Fig.

Wooden gates

If the decorative filling is very subtle and cannot bear the load, the frame is made into a “butterfly” or “hourglass”, in the form of an X-shaped support with crossbars at the edges. In the “butterfly”, under the sheathing of slats from 10x20 mm, 2 horizontal crossbars are placed, at the top and bottom, and the “hourglass”, pos. 3, for any finish, even film, framed on all sides. Such gates are more labor-intensive, because the support boards at the crosshairs are cut into half the tree, and the “hourglass” must also be cut into the frame.

For a gate that is elongated in height, the best would be an E-shaped support structure, pos. 4. A special case is a wicker gate. Wattle is quite strong and rigid, but it cannot be twisted diagonally. In the wicket the ground does not hold it back, so the wicker gate is reinforced with an Λ-shaped support. It is enough to reinforce only the lower half in this way, pos. 5, this does not deprive the wicker gate of its rustic appearance, especially when the wood darkens.

Garden and rustic

The garden gate is most often not designed uniformly and is made openwork. Then, in order to ensure the rigidity and strength of the canvas, it is made framed: all the loads are taken by the frame made of timber from 40x100. Its parts at the joints are cut into half the wood using waterproof glue and tightened with pairs of diagonally located self-tapping screws. Excellent frame gates are made from the leaves of old doors and windows for small glazing, pos. 1 in Fig. Under oblique lath sheathing without cutting in at the crosshairs, the corners of the frame are additionally reinforced with gussets made of boards (15-30) x (80-150), pos. 2. Sections of the frame for heterogeneous decorative filling are separated by crossbars, pos. 4 and 5.

Durable entrance

A wooden panel gate will be especially durable, and when impregnated with fire retardants, synthetic resins and made from hard wood and anti-vandal, see fig. left. In this case, the frame is made of timber from 50x150, and its parts at the corners are connected into a tongue and groove. For filling, a tongue and groove board from (30-40) x 100 is used. The dimensions of the frame are taken such that a whole number of boards fit into its window without taking into account the height of the tongue crest. A groove is selected along the contour inside the frame; one of the outer boards fits into it with the ridge of the tongue, and the groove of the tongue of the opposite board is connected to the groove of the frame with dowels (lamellas).

Note: overhead hinges of frame and panel gates can be shortened, see fig. on the right, so-called semi-barn (full length overhead hinges - barn). Card loops cannot be used anyway.

Gate - boom

A wooden lancet gate looks especially elegant in the garden, see for example. photo in fig. on right. An arrow gate is considered quite labor-intensive, but in fact it is not difficult to make for a novice craftsman. A sheet of plywood 5-6 mm thick is enough material, and the special tools you will need are a jigsaw and, preferably, a screwdriver.

The diagram for cutting the material and assembling the lancet top of the gate is shown in Fig. below. In total you will need 12 parts, 6 per side. 4 medium ones, if necessary, are narrowed from the inside to accommodate decorative filling (shown in dotted lines). Before assembling the boom, all blanks are impregnated twice with a water-polymer emulsion, if the plywood is ordinary construction or packaging. The “legs” of the 2 middle parts are shortened by approximately 100 mm to fit on the tenon.

The pointed pommel is assembled using PVA glue and small notched nails or self-tapping screws. The length of the fastener is 20 mm for 5 mm plywood and 24 mm for 6 mm plywood. First, 4 front parts are assembled, including those shortened for a tenon, and then the remaining 2 rear parts are attached to them. The parts are knocked down/screwed together with a “snake” (zigzag) in increments of 80-150 mm with a distance from the edge of 30-40 mm. The back “snake” should be a mirror image of the front one.

The straight legs of the “arrow” can be shortened to suit the overall design of the wicket. A spike is cut out at the upper ends of its vertical posts for landing the arrow. The arrow is planted on the same PVA and reinforced with 4 diagonal pairs of self-tapping screws, 2 each in front and behind. The rear pairs should be a mirror image of the front pairs.

Gate and pergola

A pergola in the general sense is a structure without walls and a roof. For example, a garden pergola can simply be a lattice tunnel through which climbing plants are allowed to grow. The classic pergola, a colonnade of more than 2 rows, topped with intersecting beams, became known in Europe thanks to the ancient Greeks, but was invented either in Ancient Egypt or in Persia for palaces and temples.

The fact is that a classic pergola gives a fairly strong psychological effect of dominance of the structure and, accordingly, its owner. In the oppressive East, the pergola was supposed to suppress the pride of the visitor before he approached the throne or altar. Unfortunately, it is not possible to go into the intricacies of why this is so, but this effect is quite objective, like the calming effect of the mirror of a pond with water lilies or thoughts of abundance inspired by a lush flowerbed.

Therefore, equip the entrance gate with a monumental pergola, as in pos. 1 pic., it’s better not to: the guest may turn out to be the person on whom the course of your affairs depends. And then he won’t know why he lost his loyalty to you, and you won’t know why everything suddenly went to pieces.

In less authoritarian Europe, they immediately understood this, and the pergola, having been covered with flowers to soften the pressure, was moved to the relaxation corner of the garden, where guests are allowed at the owner’s choice. In addition, as soon as the arch was invented, they began to crown the pergola with it, pos. 2; the rounded pommel significantly softens the dominance effect. In the chambers, the pergola was replaced by an enfilade that inspires a sense of grandeur without degrading dignity.

If the overall design still requires a classic pergola at the entrance, then it should be made visually as light as possible, and the fence and gate should be openwork and as low as possible, pos. 3. Openness will reduce the dominance of the pergola to nothing. Another option is a single-row pergola, somewhat stylized as a Buddhist-Shinto shrine, pos. 4. It evokes a weaker feeling of belittlement and it is already associated with higher powers, which is not offensive to anyone in their right mind.

Metal gates

The basis of a metal gate is a metal profile; as a rule - a square steel pipe 60x60 (2-3). A rectangular frame is welded from it according to the dimensions of the gate leaf. To reinforce the sheathing with corrugated sheets, one cross member from the same pipe, located in the middle of the height of the sheet, is sufficient. If a round water pipe is used, for reinforcement you need to place a diagonal stiffener under the profiled sheet and strengthen the corners with gussets from 200x200 to 300x300 made of 3-5 mm steel sheet. In this case, when sheathing with a sheet 1.5 mm thick with a wave of 15x150, you can increase the width of the sheet to 1.5 m, this is a real gate leaf, see fig.

How is a metal gate constructed for any other decorative filling, incl. and wooden, see fig. below: the frame is additionally reinforced with the same cross member, but made of 40x25 (1.5-2) corrugated pipe, and 2 struts from the middle to the outer corners.

The reinforcement elements are welded edgewise to the frame flush with the internal plane of the frame; this will provide a recess for installing the filling. Under it, from small parts (for example, a slatted grille), the same pipe 40x25 (1.5-2), or a steel corner, is mounted inside along the contour of the frame.

A gate of this design, covered with scraps of metal siding, looks quite decent, see fig. on right. And the remains of any external finishing material: plastic lining, blockhouse, etc. will be used for the cladding of a garden or other cladding that vandals cannot reach.

Note: a steel gate leaf, even without casing, weighs more than 20 kg. Therefore, keeping in mind the same sudden wind loads, the hinges for it need to be taken from garages, see fig. left. For a gate, loops with a diameter of (16-20) x 120 with a ball stop are sufficient. More powerful ones on a support bearing, of course, won’t hurt.

The “most complete” scheme for reinforcing a metal gate, designed for any cladding and for operation in the most severe conditions, turns out to be not much more material- and labor-intensive: it comes down to a short additional brace at each corner and mounting the gate on a separate post. A drawing of a metal gate frame with a wicket for all occasions is shown in Fig. below.

The manufacture of such gates with a wicket has some features, namely: first they make the gate itself, with precise installation of the posts, checking for opening and closing, etc. Then there is a technological break of 20 days until the concrete foundations of the gate posts gain 75% strength; In the meantime, you can also make a gate with a pillar. Its canvas is temporarily fixed tightly in the closed state with bolts or clamps. The lining of the gates and gates is not being done yet.

• A post with a gate is placed in the well;
• Align vertically in the transverse plane, fixing it with wooden inserts;
• The gate leaf is moved towards the gate post, solid gaskets are placed under its edge to provide the required operational clearance, see above, and secured with clamps;
• The wicket post is aligned vertically in the longitudinal plane, while simultaneously checking whether the installation is not out of alignment in the transverse plane, i.e. use 2 plumb lines;
• The gate post is finally fixed and concreted;
• Sheathing of all sashes and installation of fittings is carried out no earlier than 7 days (at +18 in the shade) after the concrete in the foundation of the gate post has set.

Wicket in the gate

A gate with a wicket built into the gate leaf will save a lot of work and a lot of money. True, this only applies to metal swing gates. A wicket built into a sliding or overhead gate makes it so difficult to make it yourself that it may be better to install an additional post. If the gate is swinging, then the gate in the gate is made according to the following rules, see on the right in Fig. below:

1. The post adjacent to the gate is made of steel reinforced (pipe from 100x100x4) and concreted to a depth of at least 1.2 m, regardless of the freezing depth.
2. The width of the gate leaf is made no more than half the width of the gate leaf.
3. The reinforcement scheme for the gate leaves is preserved, but on the gate with a wicket it seems to be compressed horizontally.
4. The frame of the gate is made with a cross member from the main pipe (60x60x3) and a pair of diagonal stiffeners from the pipe 40x25x from the middle to the outer corners.

With wooden gates the situation is somewhat more complicated: installing a gate in a wooden gate leaf without losing overall strength in this case is only possible if the gate is made of durable, solid (and expensive) wood. If the gate is made of ordinary coniferous wood, then the gate must be hung next to it, and the common post for it and the gate must be steel, concreted to the full depth. In both cases, the gate leaves and gates are made of frames with an additional diagonal stiffness connection (see left in the figure) from timber from 150x50.

Different wicket differences

Portal

A portal gate is not necessarily a pergola; it has only recently come into fashion. Most often, a rain canopy (canopy) is placed over the gate, on the left in Fig. It does not require extra space outside (which is no longer the property of the owner), but it is convenient for the guest, and there is a reason to respect the owner. According to the old rules of hospitality, it was considered good manners if the portal-canopy of the gate was brought out to the outside by at least 3-4 feet (approx. 0.9-1.2 m). Inside - as much as you like, even through a continuous tunnel to the porch.

Note: Of the modern materials for the roof of a canopy portal, cellular polycarbonate is best suited. relatively inexpensive, technologically accessible for making with your own hands, strong, durable, aesthetically well compatible with fences, gates and wickets made of any material or combinations thereof.

The second type of wicket portals is structural and technological. These are designed primarily to ensure the strength of the permanent stone fence, right there. It is not forbidden for anyone, anywhere or in any way, to equip the main gate portal with a canopy.

Fences with gates and wickets made of mesh are not very aesthetically pleasing, they do not block anything from view, but they are inexpensive, not technologically complex, require little labor and are more repairable than others. Therefore, they are most often used to fence utility yards, premises for productive domestic animals, etc. For fencing cladding, chain-link mesh is used mainly as it is more technologically advanced and durable.

The peculiarity of gate leaves and gates made of mesh is that the casing, on the one hand, itself is not capable of bearing any load; on the other hand, it is freely blown and produces very little wind loads. Therefore, the frames of the doors can be made from angles from 40x40 for gates and from 60x60 for gates. But in both cases, the reinforcement must be in the form of at least one full diagonal connection, as in a gate on a frame made of a round pipe, from the same corner, see fig. Gate posts - round pipe from 100 mm in diameter or square from 60x60x3.

Forged gates

A good hand-forged custom-made gate, on the left in the figure, at current prices will hardly cost less than 35-40 thousand rubles. And yet, a forged gate, and a unique one at that, for a middle-income householder may not be such an unaffordable luxury.

Lazy people don't make blacksmiths. Blacksmiths in their free time gradually forge monograms, flowers, etc. from leftovers and scraps. for sale. A lot of work will either happen or not, but small forged decorative elements will always find a market. These are the ones that can be purchased at fairly reasonable prices. There is also decor for sale for gates with gates, forged (more precisely, stamped) in a production environment, but such products are all the same type, and handmade is handmade.

The gate, sheathed with the most utilitarian smooth steel sheet, with piece forging applied to it, takes on a completely different look, in the center in Fig. Forging goes especially well with wood. Look at what's on the right in Fig. To give respectability to a completely unpretentious picket gate on a Z-frame, just 3 small forged parts are enough. This is really cheap and cheerful.

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Fence gates

Device

Fence gate comprises:

• pillars;
• screed;
• doors;
• foundations.

Pillars

The pillars can be brick or metal. Metal poles are made from square pipe 80x80 mm. They have low cost and sufficient strength. Brick pillars look more beautiful and solid, but are more expensive and take longer to build. The use of different types of bricks diversifies the design.

Ties

Screeds (as agreed with the customer) are made from a rectangular pipe 40x20 mm. The upper and lower ties together with the pillars form a frame and significantly increase the rigidity of the structure.

Sash

The sash consists of a frame and casing (leaf). The frame is made of 40x20 mm pipe. It has the shape of a rectangle, inside of which horizontal ties are welded. The frame is sheathed with corrugated sheets, chain-link mesh or profile pipe.

• A gate made of corrugated sheets has great strength and goes well with solid fences.
• The chain-link can be used in summer cottages. It does not shade the plants and opens the view to the street.
• Wickets made from profile pipes combine increased strength and transparency.

Foundations

The foundations are made of crushed stone or concrete. Rubble foundations made of crushed stone have sufficient load-bearing capacity, low cost and work well in the conditions of the Moscow region. Concrete foundations are used under brick pillars or when installing a gate on the same pillar with a heavy gate.

Location

The location of the gates is chosen based on the layout of the estate and the availability of free space. The gate should be located in a convenient location away from vehicle routes.

The gate can be installed separately, on the same post as the gate, or be built-in. The separate design allows you to choose the most convenient location for installing the gate. Installing a wicket next to the gate is most common. This method allows you to save a little on the number of pillars. Wickets built into the door leaf are used when there is an acute shortage of space. This is the most economical, but not entirely convenient option.

Installation of fence gates

Installation technology

It is convenient to combine the installation of a gate with the installation of a fence and gate. This reduces work costs. The fence gate is installed as follows:

• *mark places for foundations;
• *drill holes for pillars;
• *posts are driven strictly vertically into the bottom of the holes 40 cm;
• * foundations are poured or concreted;
• **pillars will be connected with ties;
• loops are welded to the posts;
• hang the sash;
• **they cut into the lock;
• paint over the welded joints.

* Work is carried out during the construction of the fence.

**If provided for in the order.

Fence gates from the ZABORCHIKOV company

The ZABORCHIKOV company installs gates for fences at reasonable prices. There are no markups or intermediary services in our prices. Here you can choose a gate of any price category. Standard orders are carried out without prepayment.

By contacting us, you can choose the structure and design of the gate from those offered by us or provide your own option. We will take into account all your wishes. Our clients are provided with additional services: calling a surveyor, dismantling old fences at minimal prices. We work efficiently and quickly. There are certificates for the materials, and a guarantee is provided for the gates. To order a fence gate, call 24 hours a day. We are constantly in touch.

Reading time ≈ 3 minutes

After making the decision to fence off the area using a fence made of corrugated sheets, the need arises to install a gate. It can be done without any problems if you follow the instructions suggested in our article.

To make a gate with your own hands, you will need the following tools: a welding machine, an angle grinder with cutting and grinding wheels - a grinder, a drill-driver, a gun for installing rivets, painting brushes, a screwdriver and a level.

Blueprints

Step-by-step instructions for making a gate from corrugated sheets

This instruction presents a method for welding a gate frame directly on the support posts.

1. Initially, you should mark the place for the future gate, leaving an opening of the required width in the fence between two posts, to which you will subsequently need to weld pipes - the basis of the frame of the future gate. Thanks to this scheme, the future gate will fit perfectly in size. In this case, problems that arise when the structure is manufactured elsewhere will be eliminated.

2. The question of how to make a gate is easily resolved. Its frame is made of the same square pipes as the fence frame. To avoid deformation of the gate frame, the pipes are welded to the fence posts.

3. After this, the upper part of the hinges is welded to the vertical post of the gate frame.

To ensure structural rigidity, a cross member from the same square pipe must be welded in the middle of the frame. The horizontality of the crossbar should be checked using a level.

4. At the next stage, the frame of the swing gate made of corrugated sheets should be cut off at the places where the pipes are attached to the posts. It is necessary to cut off all excess pieces of pipes, carefully welding all joints, and clean the welding joints using a grinding wheel.

5. Using a grinder, you need to clean the installation sites of the lower parts of the hinged hinges on the fence posts. First, you should weld the lower part of the upper hinge, after which you can hang the gate frame and weld the lower part of the second hinge in place.

6. Making a gate from a metal profile requires checking that it opens correctly: if everything is done correctly, it opens freely.

7. It is necessary to remove the gate and weld the hinges on the fence posts on all sides, cleaning the weld seams. When welding hinges, it is necessary to protect the corrugated sheets from sparks and scale from the welding arc.

8. Using a grinder, you need to cut out a place for installing a mortise lock, having previously marked all the dimensions on the gate post according to the drawings.

9. The photo shows how, by installing the gate frame on the hinges, you can mark a place for installing the lock strike plate on the fence post. You will need to secure the striker to the fence post using a drill/driver. Next, you should check that the lock is working correctly, after which you can begin painting the entire structure to protect it from rust.

Increasingly, in private and suburban areas you can see gates made of metal profiles of a wide variety of shapes and sizes. This material has many advantages: strength, reliability, presentable appearance, long service life and low cost. Read below to learn how to make a gate from corrugated sheets yourself quickly and without extra costs.

An example of a gate made of corrugated sheets - photo of an option with installation on brick pillars

How to choose the size of a gate made of corrugated sheets?

There are no strict mandatory standards or restrictions regarding the size of gates. However, when choosing them, you need to consider the following:

1. The optimal width of a gate made of corrugated sheets is 1.0 m. This width of the opening allows you to easily bring furniture or other large items into the area. Moreover, if it is larger, this can lead to rapid wear of the hinges or skewing of the gate cloth.
2. The height of the gate should not exceed 2.0 meters. If the fence around the site is high, then such a gate made of corrugated sheets will not look very good. In this case, in the opening between the support pillars above it, it is better to install additional crossbars with a metal profile insert. This will allow you not to overly weigh down the canvas of the gate itself.

Naturally, there are exceptions to these rules. For example, if your height or the height of someone in your family is above 2.0 meters, then making a gate from high-height corrugated sheets will be simply necessary. However, you should not forget about using special hinges and strengthening the frame with additional cross members.

Installation of support pillars

The first and one of the most labor-intensive stages of work is the installation of support posts on which the metal profile gate will be supported, with your own hands. This is not difficult to do, but it will take quite a lot of time, especially when it comes to brickwork.

There are two options for installing a fence made of profiled sheets. The first and simplest is the option of attaching the fence to poles made of metal pipes dug into the ground. In the second option, a fence with a gate and a wicket made of corrugated sheets is attached to pillars made of brick or stone.

Using metal support posts

The use of profiled sheets for the manufacture of entrance groups has become so widespread because making wickets and gates from corrugated sheets is very simple and inexpensive. Therefore, in the vast majority of cases, metal pipes are used as supports. They are much easier, cheaper and faster to install than brick ones.

Best suited for gate support posts profile pipe 80x80 mm with a wall thickness of 3-4 mm. To install them, holes are dug in the ground with a size of at least 300x300 mm and a depth of at least 1.0 m.

The depth of the holes depends on the type of soil where the pillars are installed. If the soil is rocky, then 70 cm will be enough. But if the soil is clayey, the depth of the holes should be no less than the freezing depth of the soil. In most regions of the middle zone it is 1.2 m.

be careful

Installing a gate made of corrugated sheets on insufficiently deepened pillars in heaving soil leads to serious deformations of the frame and canvas, the correction of which is often impossible.

Support pillars made of brick or stone

In this case, the dimensions of the foundation must be larger than the cross-section of the support column. Typically, such pillars are made of 1.5 bricks, that is, 390x390 mm. Therefore, the foundation must be no smaller than 500x500 mm. Since it is much more difficult to make such posts for a gate from corrugated sheets yourself, this option is chosen less often.

The brickwork itself does not withstand bending loads well, so to give the pillar additional strength, a metal pipe is installed in the hole before the foundation is poured with concrete. Around it the masonry is made of brick or stone. Metal embeds are welded to the same pipe, which are removed outside the masonry. Gates and wickets made of corrugated sheets will subsequently be installed on them.

Classic gate made of metal profiles - photo of installation on poles using an external frame and mortgages

The top of metal support posts should be capped to prevent moisture from entering the post. If you plan to install lamps near the gate, then before concreting the pillars in them, you need to tighten the wire in a corrugated pipe.

Preparing parts for the frame

While the concrete mixture in the foundations of the support pillars gains the necessary strength, you can start assembling the gate itself. Before you make a gate from corrugated sheets with your own hands, you need to make a frame for it.

For the frame they take profile pipe 40x40 mm or 60x30 mm. A light small gate can also be made from a 40x20 pipe, but then to give the frame the necessary rigidity, the pipe must be placed with its narrow side facing the corrugated sheet metal sheathing.

A layer of crushed stone is poured into the bottom of the pit and thoroughly compacted. Then the pillars are installed strictly vertically, using a level, and the hole is filled with concrete mixture. Gates and gates made from metal profiles can be hung on concreted pipes no sooner than after 5-6 days. This time is necessary for the concrete to gain at least 20-30% of its strength.

In order to avoid mistakes when preparing parts, before cutting the pipe it is better to first draw a sketch or make a drawing of a gate made of corrugated sheets with all the necessary dimensions. An example of such a drawing is given below.

Detailed drawing of a metal profile gate

The prepared pipe is cleaned of rust using a metal brush and cut into pieces of the required length. To assemble, the edges of the workpieces are cut at an angle of 45°.

In addition, in order to make a gate from corrugated sheets, it is necessary to cut one or two crossbars, depending on its height, which should fit closely between the large sides of the frame. This will make the structure more rigid and subsequently make it easier to install the lock.

Welding the gate frame

The workpieces are connected to each other by welding. To prevent the frame from being deformed, before making a gate from a profiled sheet, the blanks must be secured from a profile pipe in homemade conductor.

It's very easy to make:

1. Take an OSB sheet with a thickness of at least 10 mm or a sheet of thick plywood.
2. A canvas is cut out of it, the width and height of which must be at least 50 mm larger than the planned dimensions of the gate.
3. Clamps are prepared that will hold the frame elements, pressing the metal profiles to the surface of the sheet. There should be twice as many clamps as welds.

Before welding a gate from corrugated sheets, all angles are carefully checked and the diagonals of the frame are measured. One or two crossbars are installed between the upper and lower lintels of the gate frame. Then clamps are installed, which should be located a short distance from the welding site.

Diagram of how to weld a gate from corrugated sheets using a jig made from an OSB board and clamps

After fixing all the frame elements on the jig, you need to once again check the angles and parallelism of the opposite sides of the frame. Then you can start welding. In this case, the clamps cannot be removed until the seams have completely cooled down - otherwise, temperature stresses in the metal can deform and even destroy the metal. After welding is completed, all joints are cleaned.

Thanks to this welding technology, even a complete beginner can make a gate from a corrugated sheet with his own hands. At the same time, even if you have some experience in welding, I do not recommend neglecting the fixation of the workpiece. Remember that making a new frame after accidental damage to the old one will take longer and will cost more than making a simple jig.

Drawing for swing metal gates with a wicket made of corrugated sheets (click to enlarge)

In small summer cottages, gates with a wicket made of corrugated sheets are often installed. All operations for assembling the wicket frame built into the door leaf are performed in the same way as those described above. The design of the gate is subject to change, in which an opening must be provided for installation. In addition, the need to build in a gate imposes certain restrictions on its height.

Installation of fittings on metal profile gates

After assembling the gate frame, but before covering the frame with a metal profile, hinges and plates are welded to the gate for installing a lock and handle, if necessary.

Hinges for gates made of corrugated sheets are installed towards each other and are secured with welds 1-2 cm long. The hinges are placed so that the canvas cannot be removed after final installation. With this installation, the gate can only be cut with a grinder. Attach the loops at a distance of 25-30 cm from the upper and lower edges of the fabric.

Installation of hinges on a gate made of corrugated sheets

When choosing a lock for a gate made of corrugated sheets, you must pay attention to the operating conditions specified by the manufacturer in the passport. The lock must be designed for outdoor installation. When choosing a lock core, preference should be given to those that can be opened from the inside without a key. This will save you from problems if the water in the castle freezes in winter.

When opening the door inward, the lock can be either mortise or overhead. If the gate opens outwards, only a mortise lock is placed on it. The lock and handle for a gate made of corrugated sheets are usually installed at a height of approximately 90 cm.

Of the mortise locks, the most convenient are special ones. narrow profile locks, intended for installation in profile pipes. The very principle of their installation partially protects them from moisture and dust, which increases their service life.

Narrow-profile lock for a gate made of corrugated sheets

Before cutting the lock into a gate made of corrugated sheets, you need to mark the location for its installation: a rectangular slot for the body and a circle for the core. In addition, it is better to immediately mark the attachment points for the handle. Next, the installation process is quite simple:

1. Using a grinder, cuts are made along the long sides.
2. Using a drill, holes are drilled along the short sides as close to each other as possible. It is necessary to drill not along the marking strip itself, but slightly inside the rectangle.
3. To install a mortise lock in a gate made of corrugated sheets, the hole is brought to the desired shape using a file.
4. Round holes for the core are cut out using a metal burr. If it is not available, you can also use contour drilling and finishing with a file.
5. Holes for mounting screws are drilled.
6. The area around the lock is cleaned of rust, primed and painted.
7. The lock is installed on a gate made of corrugated sheets, but without linings - they are installed after the frame has been covered.

This completes the installation of the lock in the frame. However, since putting a lock on a gate made of corrugated sheets is only half the battle, the work does not end there. It is necessary to install the counter part into the support column. This stage is performed after installing the gate on the posts.

A clear example of how to insert a lock into a gate made of corrugated sheets (click to enlarge)

Additionally, a lock or latch can be installed on the gate made of corrugated sheets. Such solutions make sense both from the point of view of increasing safety and for convenience - especially if the gate is often used. In this case, it is easier to close it with a latch than to fiddle with the lock every time. You can also immediately purchase a lock with a latch and not install it separately.

How to install a gate made of corrugated sheets on support posts?

After several days have passed, the concrete mixture in the foundations of the support pillars has gained some of its strength, and the assembly of the frame is completed, you can install the gate from corrugated sheets.

To do this, place a wooden block under the frame. Using a level, the gate is set strictly vertically and the places where the second halves of the hinges are attached are marked on the support post. It must be remembered that for normal opening in winter, the canvas must be 100 mm higher than the surface of the track. Especially if you are installing a gate to a dacha made of corrugated sheets, where snow is rarely cleared in winter.

Having marked the installation locations of the hinges, they are temporarily attached to the support posts using electric welding. After checking the opening and closing of the gate, the hinges are welded with a continuous seam.

Consider

Installing a gate made of corrugated sheets with your own hands requires care and repeated double-checking, since without a “fresh look” from the outside it is easy to make a mistake.

If the gate is installed correctly, it should not open or close spontaneously. To prevent it from opening in both directions, a limiter is welded to the support opposite the hinges.

When the welding work is completed, all seams are cleaned using an angle grinder, and rust is removed from the frame and primed. Then they are painted twice with metal paint for exterior use. The main part of the lock installed in the frame must be covered with film or construction tape.

Metal profile gate frame mounted on poles

This is the penultimate stage before sewing, since you need to install a lock on the gate made of corrugated sheets and in the support post. To do this, the bolt is smeared with toothpaste and the lock is closed. After this, the place where the locking device should go will be marked on the pole.

If the lock is simple and there is no receiving block, then you just need to drill a hole of the desired shape and finish it with a file. If there is a receiving block, then you must first mark its location based on the location where the crossbar enters, and then, again, drill a hole of the desired shape. Then holes for fasteners are drilled and the mating part is installed.

Sewing a gate made of corrugated sheets

After the paint has dried, the gate canvas is sewn up with a profiled sheet. As a rule, wall corrugated sheeting C-20 or C-21 with a thickness of 0.5-0.6 mm is used for this. The use of sheets with a lower wave height is not recommended.

To fasten the corrugated sheets, roofing screws are used, less often - special rivets. Sometimes bolted connections are used for this, but this is not recommended, since in this case the necessary protection against corrosion is not provided for the web at the point where the bolt passes through the corrugated sheet. The sheets are fastened through each wave horizontally and into each transverse beam vertically.

A gate covered with corrugated sheets with closed corners

If desired, all sides of the gate made of corrugated sheets are covered with special square strips in the color of the corrugated sheet. This gives it a finished look and, in addition, provides additional protection for the frame from moisture.

After sewing the fabric, the pads for the lock are installed, as well as the handle for the gate made of corrugated sheets.

Wicket design made of corrugated sheets

After the frame is ready, it's time to think about the design. Despite the comparative simplicity of the design, there can be a lot of design options, including the use of decorative elements.

The simplest gate made of corrugated sheets is a rectangular frame made of a profile or round steel pipe, onto which a profiled metal sheet is attached. Such a gate is perfect for a fence made of corrugated sheets - it will fit especially well into the usual blind fencing of a summer cottage or personal plot. This solution also looks good with a fence made of brick or stone, including when used as supports for pillars made of these materials.

A gate made of corrugated sheets with forging will look even more beautiful. In this case, the profiled sheet will serve as a kind of background for decorative forged parts. In addition, if forged elements cover the entire opening, they strengthen the frame of the gate and make it more resistant to burglary.

A forged gate from corrugated sheets can be made with your own hands without any problems. Nowadays, ready-made decorative forged parts can be purchased at almost any building materials store. The main thing is not to overdo it with forged elements, so that the gate canvas does not look colorful and overloaded with decor.

To begin with, it is better to draw a sketch of the design of the gate. The parts purchased in accordance with the sketch are laid out on the canvas and welded to the frame, starting with the largest and ending with the smallest. However, such gates made of corrugated sheets with forging elements look much worse than the products of real specialists.

A gate made of corrugated sheets with forging - a photo of some forged elements made on production lines, as well as a simple sketch that can be implemented using them.

Firstly, professional artistic forging allows you to produce very elegant and thin elements that cannot be produced industrially. Secondly, the range of ready-made elements is very limited. And thirdly, a forged gate with corrugated sheets, made by a professional, can reflect any idea and is stylistically integral, unlike composite products.

Finally, the gate can be either a separate object or part of the gate. Thus, swing gates with a wicket made of corrugated sheets are often used. This decision is justified if for some reason you are very limited in the size of the entrance group - for example, you are replacing an old gate and want to install new ones on the same support pillars.

When making your own gate

If you did all the work on installing and assembling the gate yourself, you will only have to pay for the materials that were needed for this. Usually the final cost is up to 2000-2500 rubles.

But you don’t have to make the gate yourself. You can buy gates made of metal profiles in the construction departments of most supermarkets. Ready-made gates made of corrugated sheets can also be purchased from specialized companies engaged in the manufacture of metal structures. There you can order the production of such a product according to your own sketch, while receiving free technical advice. When such a gate made of corrugated sheets is installed, its price will be from 4,500 rubles, excluding the cost of locks and hinges.

If for some reason you also had to hire specialists to install a gate made of metal profiles, the price of such work in different regions of the Russian Federation will be from 2100 to 2500 rubles. And this also does not include the cost of installing a lock.