Homemade electric shocker. Do-it-yourself stun gun: diagram, assembly and operating instructions. How to make a stun gun at home. How to make a stun gun from an electric lighter

Ensuring human safety plays an important role, which is why many choose various means of protection. Pneumatic or, for example, firearms are not always available and are also unsafe. A stun gun is a self-defense device that does not require a license. For this reason, this type of protection has been quite popular for many years.

The choice of such devices is now quite wide, but you can make a stun gun with your own hands. The diagram presented below will help you figure it out quickly and easily. A homemade stun gun does not pose any danger to others and can only be used for self-defense. In the article we will talk about what this device is and how it works. In addition, we will tell you how to do it and what are the features of its use.

Types of stun guns

Modern factory stun guns come in various types. Externally, they can be of different sizes, vary in power, and even have a body in the form of objects such as a flashlight, pen, pistol, lipstick, etc. The device can be powered by batteries or an accumulator. Batteries are installed in less powerful models. Sparking in a stun gun can be low- or high-frequency. Devices with a frequency of 50-80 Hz cause pain in the first second, but do not cause severe harm. As a rule, they can only scare. Devices with a frequency of more than 100 Hz make it possible to temporarily neutralize an attacker. Stun guns differ from each other in that low-frequency ones produce a crackling sound, while high-frequency ones produce a buzzing sound. You can independently determine which stun gun is in front of you experimentally: more powerful devices can set fire to paper.

Such devices are used for self-defense with the aim of neutralizing an attacker by delivering an electrical discharge. The stun gun creates a strong pain effect and acts on the muscles, paralyzing the attacker for a certain time. This device is only permitted to be used by persons who have reached the age of majority. Whether to purchase a stun gun from a specialized store or to make it yourself is an individual decision for everyone. Buying a ready-made device is quite expensive, but simple. There is an alternative option - try to make a stun gun with your own hands. The diagram of such a device clearly shows what we will have to face.

The choice of such devices is very large. They differ not only in appearance and power, but also in cost. The circuit of the simplest stun gun does not require high knowledge in the field of electronics; the necessary parts are also available for purchase. The manufacture of such a means of self-defense cannot be called very simple; moreover, the device must meet a number of requirements. The electrical circuit of the stun gun must be thought out so that the device is:

• compact, invisible, not causing inconvenience when moving;
• powerful, capable of neutralizing the attacker and giving you a few seconds to respond;
• rechargeable, since no one needs a disposable tool.

If you decide to make a stun gun yourself, remember that a device of simple design should not consume a lot of energy. A high-quality device, taking into account all the necessary recommendations, will serve properly for a long time and provide reliable protection from intruders.

What you need to make your own stun gun:

• Soldering iron for fusing parts.
• Converter.
• Ferrite rod.
• Capacitor.
• Arrester.
• Wire.
• Transformer.
• Epoxy resin.
• Insulating tape.

Principle of operation

What is the principle of operation of a stun gun? The diagram given in the article assumes the following: the igniting capacitor acts on the transformer, resulting in a spark that pierces several centimeters of air. The capacitor at this moment directly hits with all its energy. The use of a conductive channel allows the charge to be carried out without large losses, while maintaining not only the power of the device, but also its convenient dimensions. How to make a stun gun at home? Let's get to work.

The transformer is the main part of the device, one of the most difficult to manufacture. To operate, you will need a B22 armor core made of 2000NM ferrite. It will be necessary to wind an enameled wire (0.01 mm) around it. You need to wind until there is about 1.5 mm of space left in the core. An excellent result will be obtained if you wrap it with electrical tape. The result will be 5-6 layers.

It should be noted that it is quite difficult for non-professionals to make a stun gun with their own hands. The circuit may seem quite simple, but during production there are many details that must be taken into account. This is especially true for isolation. The wound wire must be insulated with one layer of electrical tape, and then another 6 turns must be made, but with a denser wire with a diameter of about 0.8 mm. When making the third turn, you will need to stop and twist, after which you can continue and add 3 more turns. You can ensure the strength of the structure using superglue. To complete the work, the cups need to be glued or wrapped again with electrical tape. Contacts should not have contact with the environment, otherwise we risk causing electric shock to ourselves instead of defense.

Next, for work you will need a tube with a diameter of 20 mm and a length of 5 cm, made of polypropylene. In a stun gun, this part will be a sectional frame. To do this, you need to use a drill to fix a bolt that will fit the tube in diameter, and carefully grind the grooves using an emery cloth. It is important not to damage the pipe during operation and end up with sections measuring 2 by 2 mm. After this, you need to use a stationery knife to make a cut up to 3 mm wide along the frame without damaging the pipe.

Second phase

So, we continue to consider how to make a stun gun with your own hands. For subsequent work, you will need a wire with a diameter of 0.2 mm. It must be wound around all sections of the frame, but it should not go beyond the frame. For more convenient work, it is advisable to solder the beginning of the wire or secure it well with glue; leave the end free.

A ferrite rod with a diameter of 10 mm and a length of 50 mm must be processed using an emery wheel. The result should be a round part. The ferrite rod must be wrapped with electrical tape and 20 turns made on top. You need to use the same wire as for the first transformer, that is, 0.8 mm. Be sure to wind in the same direction, after which you need to insulate the wire in several layers.

The main part for a homemade stun gun

The prepared rod must be inserted inside the frame, from the side where the HV winding ends, and the two windings must be connected together. After this, the transformer must be placed in a cardboard box and filled with hot paraffin. It only needs to be melted, but not heated to high temperature. You need to pour in paraffin with a reserve, because after hardening it will settle a little. It will be easier to cut off the excess part. Now we have the main part that will allow us to make a stun gun with our own hands. The diagram clearly shows the location of the main elements.

Charging the device

The igniting condenser is charged through the bridge, and the combat one is charged through additional diodes. Thanks to this, one circuit is not created. Any transistor can be used; there are also no special requirements for the resistor. The capacitor provides inrush current limitation and serves to protect the converter. If the stun gun assembly circuit involves installing a powerful transistor, then the capacitor does not need to be used.

AA size batteries are installed in the amount of 6 pieces. Transistors are mounted on a radiator. It is desirable that it have insulating gaskets. We install all prepared parts. The most important thing is that you need to fix the HV pins, the distance between which should be more than 15 mm. Otherwise, the stun gun has every chance of quickly burning out.

Charge frequency

Whether to use a charger for a stun gun or not depends on the desire of the owner. Batteries are best for power supply. The stun gun does not require any specific settings; it should work immediately. If you use these batteries, the discharge frequency should be close to 35 Hertz. If this value is lower, the transformer may be incorrectly or poorly wound, or other transistors should be selected. You need to experimentally select the frequency of discharges. This is done by routing contacts. The discharge frequency must be tested for 5 seconds. The distance should not be as wide as possible, otherwise the stun gun may burn out at one point. Note that air breakdown is affected by pressure, humidity and other external conditions.

Frame

What do you need for a homemade stun gun? Thick cardboard is suitable as the body of the device, on which you can immediately draw the location of all the parts, and then begin installing and fastening them. It is best to bend the material with pliers. Glue is applied to the outside. It is important to ensure the tightness of the seam. It is better to first place the parts inside the case, and then begin to fix them one by one.

Designate a location for charging the battery and the start button. It is advisable to treat the stun gun with heat shrink; this will help to recess some elements a little inside and provide very good protection from the external environment. After using the heat shrink, you need to check the operation of the stun gun again. Aluminum rivets should be used as protective electrodes.

The final stage of production

After checking the operation of the stun gun and the tightness of the entire system, you can begin to fill the device with epoxy resin. After this you need to wait 6-7 hours. At this stage, you can cut off the excess parts and give it a convenient shape before the epoxy hardens too much. You can sand the device and then coat the finished body with varnish. The operating instructions for the stun gun do not require any special explanation. This device is used for self-defense, does not cause much harm to health and does not require a license.

Stun gun power

If the spark between the contacts of the device is small and raises doubts about the effectiveness, then you can check it. How to increase the power of a stun gun? For this purpose, it is sufficient to use a regular mains fuse, which must be placed between the contacts without creating direct interaction between them. If the fuse blows, this will indicate that the output current is already more than 250 mA. The result of competent work is a compact and reliable means of protection with the necessary power.

Shooting stun gun

Let's take a closer look at what such a device looks like. more difficult to perform. For this reason, many people prefer the regular model of the device. This device works as follows: a special unit is installed in it, which is directly connected to the source of electricity by high-voltage wires; at the moment when the block hits the target, voltage is applied to the electrodes and an electric shock occurs. The design itself is difficult to manufacture. To operate you will need a firing system and special wires. The disadvantages of such a stun gun also include the fact that the device must be recharged after use. If there are multiple attackers, some difficulties may arise and the stun gun will not provide adequate protection.

Safety when using a stun gun

It is important to remember that the device should only be used for its intended purpose and when danger arises. A stun gun is not fatal. But if a person suffers from heart disease, he may die. An electric shock to the chest area is dangerous even for a healthy person. It is safe and effective to use the device in the abdominal muscles, where those responsible for coordinating movements are located. This application will allow the intruder to be incapacitated for some time.

Improper use of a stun gun can cause harm to the owner. For example, in humid weather you can get it yourself. A stun gun must not be used in water, near an open fire, or near explosive objects. The thickness of the attacker's clothing does not affect the performance of the device. It is important to observe the time of exposure of a person to a stun gun. To lose orientation and cause pain, using the device for 1-2 seconds is enough. Its prolonged use is unacceptable, as it can lead to fatal electric shock. The effect of using the device lasts on average 20 minutes. In this case, contact with the following areas should be avoided:

• Chest area. The heart may fail, and the user is charged with exceeding the necessary self-defense, resulting in death.
• Solar plexus. The person may suffocate.
• Head. Possible cerebral hemorrhage.

There are a lot of ways to create a stun gun at home, and we have considered only one of them. In each case, you need to take into account certain features and subtleties so as not to spoil the details and not to redo the work several times. The material for making a stun gun and the result of the efforts depend on the skill and experience of the specialist. You can buy the necessary parts or get them from other unnecessary equipment. Additionally, the device can be equipped with a flashlight for convenience. It depends on personal wishes.

There are a large number of different models of stun guns on the market, which also differ in power. For self-defense purposes, it is allowed to use a stun gun up to 3 W, and only after reaching the age of majority. Devices with higher power are permitted only for intelligence agencies. Now you know how to make a stun gun at home. We hope that our article will be useful and will help you make a high-quality self-defense product with your own hands that will fully meet your expectations and will last a long time.

You can find a lot of videos and text materials on production on the Internet. Making most of them requires a lot of money and knowledge. In this material we will look at the method of manufacturing what is probably one of the cheapest and simplest stun guns. As a result, we will get a good means of self-defense.

Let's watch a video on making a stun gun

So, we will need:
- electric fly swatter;
- two AA batteries;
- box;
- transparent hoses;
- self-tapping screws.

Unlike most analogues made on the basis of piezoelectric elements, this stun gun will be made of serious materials, so you need to be extremely careful. Let's get started.

First of all, we take the electronic fly swatter and disassemble it. After successfully disassembling the fly swatter handle, all the electronics will open before us.

All we need is the board, which is located at the very top of the handle. The board contains the transformer itself, power supply, a start button, which we will later bring out, an ice indicator that shows that the device is turned on, as well as capacitors, the outputs of which are located on the back of the board.

Since the factory solution for the button location may not be so convenient when installing the board in a box, you can extend the button contacts with wires and install your own switch or button.

The exact location of the button must be chosen at your own discretion, depending on the type and size of the box.

We will use the most common self-tapping screws as contacts. When searching for them, you need to make sure that they are as identical as possible. As for the hoses, we will use them to insulate the contacts.

On the box you need to make two holes for the contacts. If the box, like the author’s, is metal, then you definitely need to take care of insulating the contacts.

Finally, you can make the stun gun rechargeable. To do this, you can replace AA batteries with rechargeable ones.

You can also replace the factory capacitor on the board with a capacitor removed from the camera flash, but we will not do this.

We insulate the inside of the box to prevent short circuits.

We make a hole on the side for the button, on the top for screws and paint it.

We glue double-sided tape to the bottom of the box and assemble the entire board structure, along with the battery and contacts in the box.

Among the means of self-defense, electric shock devices (ESD) are not in last place, especially in terms of the strength of their psychological impact on attackers. However, the cost is considerable, which encourages radio amateurs to create their own stun gun analogues.

Without claiming super-originality and super-novelty of ideas, I propose my development, which can be repeated by anyone who has at least once in their life dealt with winding a transformer and installing the simplest devices such as a detector radio with an amplifier using one or two transistors.

The basis of the do-it-yourself stun gun I propose is (Fig. 1a) a transistor generator that converts direct voltage from a power source such as a Krona galvanic battery (Korund, 6PLF22) or a Nika battery into increased alternating voltage, with a standard multiplier U. Very important the element of the ESA is a homemade transformer (Fig. 1b and Fig. 2). The magnetic core for it is a ferrite core with a diameter of 8 and a length of 50 mm. Such a core can be split off, for example, from a magnetic antenna of a radio receiver, after first filing the original one around the circumference with the edge of an abrasive stone. But a transformer works more efficiently if the ferrite is from a television fuel assembly. True, in this case you will have to grind a cylindrical rod of the required dimensions from the base U-shaped magnetic core.

The base tube of the frame for placing transformer windings on it is a 50-mm piece of plastic casing from a used felt-tip pen, the inner diameter of which corresponds to the above-mentioned ferrite rod. Cheeks measuring 40x40 mm are cut from a 3 mm sheet of vinyl plastic or plexiglass. They are firmly connected to the tube-segment of the felt-tip pen body, having previously lubricated the seats with dichloroethane.

For transformer windings, in this case, copper wire is used in high-strength enamel insulation based on Viniflex. Primary 1 contains 2x14 turns of PEV2-0.5. Winding 2 has almost half as many. More precisely, it contains 2x6 turns of the same wire. But high-voltage 3 has 10,000 turns of thinner PEV2-0.15.

As interlayer insulation, instead of a film of polytetrafluoroethylene (fluoroplastic) or polyethylene terephthalate (lavsan), usually recommended for such windings, it is quite acceptable to use 0.035 mm interelectrode capacitor paper. It is advisable to stock up on it in advance: for example, remove it from the 4-microfarad LSE1-400 or LSM-400 from the old installation fittings for fluorescent lamps, which have seemingly exhausted their service life long ago, and cut them exactly according to the working width of the frame of the future transformer.

After every three “wire” layers in the author’s version, a wide brush was used to “coat” the resulting winding with epoxy glue, slightly diluted with acetone (so that the “epoxy” was not very viscous) and the capacitor-paper insulation was laid in 2 layers. Then, without waiting for hardening, the winding continued.

To avoid wire breakage due to uneven rotation of the frame during winding, PEV2-0.15 was passed through the ring. The latter hung on a spring made of steel wire with a diameter of 0.2 - 0.3 mm, slightly pulling the wire upward. Anti-breakdown protection was installed between the high-voltage and other windings - 6 layers of the same capacitor paper with epoxy.

The ends of the windings are soldered to pins passed through holes in the cheeks. However, conclusions can be drawn without tearing the winding wires from the same PEV2, folding them 2, 4, 8 times (depending on the diameter of the wire) and twisting them.

The finished transformer is wrapped in one layer of fiberglass and filled with epoxy resin. During installation, the terminals of the windings are pressed against the cheeks and placed with the ends as far apart as possible from each other (especially in the high-voltage winding) in the corresponding compartment of the housing. As a result, even with 10-minute operation (and longer continuous use of a protective stun gun with your own hands is not required), breakdowns at the transformer are excluded.

In the original design, the ESD generator was developed with a focus on the use of KT818 transistors. However, replacing them with KT816 with any letter index in the name and installing them on small plate radiators made it possible to reduce the weight and size of the entire device. This was also facilitated by the use of well-proven KTs106V (KTs106G) diodes with high-voltage ceramic capacitors K15-13 (220 pF, 10 kV) in the voltage multiplier. As a result, we managed to fit almost everything (without taking into account the safety whiskers and arrester pins) into a plastic case like a soap dish measuring 135x58x36 mm. The weight of the assembled protective ESA is about 300 g.

In the housing between the transformer and the multiplier, as well as at the electrodes on the soldering side, partitions made of sufficiently strong plastic are required - as a measure to strengthen the structure as a whole and as a precaution to avoid sparks jumping from one radio element of installation to another, as well as as a means of protecting the transformer itself from breakdowns. Brass whiskers are attached to the outside under the electrodes to reduce the distance between the electrodes, which facilitates the formation of a protective discharge.

A protective spark is formed without a “whisker”: between the points of the pins - the working parts, but this increases the risk of breakdown of the transformer, “firmware” of the installation inside the housing.

In fact, the idea of ​​a “mustache” was borrowed from “branded” models and designs. As they say, such a technical solution as the use of a slide-type switch has been adopted: in order to avoid self-switching on when the electroshock protective equipment is resting, say, in the chest or side pocket of its owner.

It would be worthwhile, I think, to warn radio amateurs about the need to carefully handle the protective ESA, both during the design and commissioning period, and when walking around with a ready-made stun gun with your own hands. Remember that it is directed against a bully, a criminal. Do not exceed the limits of necessary self-defense!

There are many ways to feel confident in a dark alley or on narrow unlit streets, but most of them are either illegal or require a lot of time. Not everyone can easily spend 20-30 thousand rubles on a traumatic weapon and even spend a couple of months on training and obtaining a license. The same applies to martial arts - several years of practicing techniques in the gym does not guarantee protection, and learning to fight in a month is impossible.

One of the best options for protecting yourself and loved ones from attacks by intruders is a stun gun. It does not require a license to carry and is not subject to registration with the Ministry of Internal Affairs; it easily fits in a pocket or handbag. Any adult Russian citizen can buy it, but not everyone can afford it. We will look at one of the many ways to assemble a simple and powerful stun gun with your own hands, with diagrams and pictures illustrating the creation process.

Before you start

Homemade stun guns are actually prohibited, since only Russian-made devices that have a license are allowed for use on the territory of the Russian Federation. The very fact of owning such a product may attract the interest of law enforcement agencies.

What is a stun gun

A typical representative of an electrical device for self-defense consists of five components: a battery, a voltage converter, a capacitor, a surge arrester and a transformer. The mechanism of operation is as follows: the capacitor discharges the accumulated charge with some periodicity to the transformer, at the output of which a discharge occurs - that same spark. The problem with this design is this transformer, which is created in the factory from special materials according to a secret scheme that cannot be found on the Internet.

Therefore, the circuit will be slightly different - based on a pair of ignition and combat capacitors. The gist is this:

• By pressing the button, the igniting capacitor acts in the same way as in the original circuit - it is discharged to the transformer, and it gives a spark. This spark is an ionized layer of air, with much less resistance than ordinary air.

• at the moment the spark appears, the fire capacitor is triggered, which sends all the accumulated power through this channel with virtually no losses.

As a result, with a lower total power of the product and savings on the transformer, the result is the same, if not worse, stun gun, while being one and a half times smaller.

How to make the simplest stun gun at home: where to start

Manufacturing begins with the most complex thing - the transformer. The reason for this is the complexity of winding it, so if the assembler can’t bear it and chooses an easier way to obtain a self-defense device (purchase it), then no effort will be expended on manufacturing the remaining parts.

The basis will be a B22 magnetic armor core made of 2000NM ferrite. It is called armored because it is a thing closed on all sides with two terminals. It looks like an ordinary spool, like the one that is inserted into a sewing machine. True, instead of threads, a thin varnished wire with a diameter of approximately 0.1 millimeter is wound into it. You can buy it at the radio market or get it from your alarm clock. Before starting winding, solder leads to the ends of the wire to make the structure stronger and more resistant to breakage.

You need to wind it manually until there is about 1.5 millimeters of free space on the reel. To achieve the best effect, it is better to wind in layers, isolating them from each other with electrical tape or other dielectric. And if you find a PELSHO wire, then you won’t need any insulation at all - it’s already in the wire’s design: just roll it in bulk and add a little machine oil.

After winding is completed, insulate the turns with a couple of rolls of electrical tape and wind 6 turns of thicker wire (0.7-0.9 millimeters) on top. Halfway through the winding you need to make a retraction - just twist it and bring it out. It is better to fix the entire wire with cyanoacrylate, and fix the two halves of the coil to each other with cyanoacrylate or electrical tape,

Making an output transformer

This is the most difficult part of making your own stun gun. Since it is impossible to make a standard layer transformer at home, we will simplify the design and make it sectional.

As a base, we will take an ordinary propylene tube with a diameter of 2 centimeters. If you still have these after renovating your bathroom, it’s time to use them; if not, buy them at a plumbing store. The main thing is that it is not reinforced with metal. We will need a piece 5-6 centimeters long.

It’s easy to make a sectional frame out of it - fix the workpiece and cut grooves along its diameter with a width and depth of 2 millimeters every two millimeters. Be careful - you cannot cut through the pipe. After this, cut a groove 3 millimeters wide along the frame.

All that remains is to do the winding. It is made of wire with a diameter of 2 millimeters, which is wound around all sections within the tube. A lead should be soldered to the beginning of the wire and secured with glue to avoid accidental breakage.

A ferrite rod with a diameter of 1 centimeter and a length of approximately 5 centimeters is suitable as a core for a transformer. Suitable material can be found in horizontal scan transformers in old Soviet televisions - you just need to adjust it to the dimensions and grind it to the shape of the rod itself. This is a fairly dusty job, so don't do it at home without a respirator. If there is no workshop or garage nearby, use ferrite rings by gluing them together, or buy them at the radio market.

The rod needs to be wrapped with electrical tape and a winding made of 0.8 wire on it (we used it for the second winding of the converter transformer. The winding is made along the entire length of the core, not reaching the edges 5-10 millimeters, and is fixed with electrical tape.

The core winding is wound in the same direction as the winding on the propylene tube - clockwise or counterclockwise.

After this, insulate the core with electrical tape, but watch the diameter - it should fit tightly into the tube. On the side where the winding on the tube does not have a soldered wire, solder two windings (outer and inner) together. This way you will get three outputs - two ends of the windings and a common point.

If you don’t understand the process, you can watch a video on YouTube on how to make a stun gun with your own hands at home.

The final stage is pouring paraffin. Any will do - the main thing is not to boil it to avoid damaging the internal elements of the transformer. Make a small box slightly higher than the height of the transformer. Place the transformer in it, bring the wires out and fill the exit points with glue. After this, pour paraffin into the box and place it on the radiator so that the paraffin does not cool down and all air bubbles come out. We need a headroom because of the shrinkage of the cooling paraffin. Remove excess with a knife.

Do-it-yourself stun gun from scrap materials: wiring

Now it's time to look at the circuit diagram of the stun gun. It looks like this:

• The igniting capacitor is charged through the diode bridge

• The combat capacitor is charged through additional diodes.

Almost any 330 ohm MOSFET transistors are suitable for the converter; the choice of resistors is also not critical. Capacitors of 3300 picofarads are needed to limit the current when starting the device, that is, to protect the converter. If you use high-power transistors (like IRFZ44+), then such protection is not required. and you can do without installing such capacitors.

There is one feature in the circuit: if the contacts are short-circuited (for example, when touching the skin, not clothing), the shocker does not work correctly, since the combat capacitor does not have time to charge. If you want to get rid of this drawback, place a second arrester in series with one of the outputs.

The entire circuit (with the correct arrangement of elements on the board) fits quite well on an area of ​​4 by 5 centimeters. For power supply, we will take 6 nickel-cadmium batteries with a capacity of 300 milliamp-hours, the size of half a AA battery with a power of approximately 15 watts. Thus, the entire device fits into a housing the size of a cigarette pack.

For contacts, it is best to use aluminum rivets. They have sufficient conductivity and have a steel core. It gives two advantages at once: the strength of the contacts increases significantly and there are no problems with soldering aluminum. If they are not available, then ordinary steel plates of any shape will do.

The assembly can be done either on an etched textolite board, or the elements can be soldered with wires. But first, it’s better to assemble it on a breadboard so as not to waste time and effort on remaking the board in case something goes wrong. The high-voltage terminals should be fixed at a short distance (about one and a half centimeters) so that the transformer does not burn out.

After unsoldering, turn on the device. Power must be taken directly from the batteries - do not use power supplies. It will not require any adjustment and should work immediately after switching on; the sparking frequency is approximately 35 hertz. If it is significantly less, the reason is most likely an incorrectly wound transformer or incorrect transistors.

If everything works correctly, then separate the output contacts by a centimeter and start the device again. A standard shocker has a distance between contacts of 2.5 centimeters. If everything works correctly, then spread the contacts another centimeter and test the device again. If it works well, bring them back to the standard 2.5 centimeters. Such a power reserve is needed for the device to operate in any conditions of humidity and pressure.

If the parts do not smoke or melt, everything is fine, you can solder the elements onto the board and proceed to the last stage - creating the case.

Housing for a stun gun at home

Since stamping the body at home is not available, and 3D printers are not available everywhere and not to everyone, we will use a folk remedy - epoxy resin. Forming such a box is a painstaking process, but this material has a number of advantages:

• solidity;
• tightness;
• electrical insulation.

To create, you will need the epoxy resin itself, cardboard as a frame, a glue gun and some little things.

It is better to start the process by cutting out the back cover of the case from cardboard with a pre-drawn plan for the arrangement of parts, and then paste it with strips of cardboard around the perimeter using a glue gun. The strips should be as long as the width of the shocker (about 3 centimeters) plus room for stickers. You need to glue from the outside of the base, while carefully ensuring that the seam is sealed.

After all the strips have been glued, place the circuit elements inside and evaluate the correctness of their arrangement. Also determine where you will have the start button and the battery charging connector. If everything is satisfactory, then check the correct connection of the elements to each other and the operation of the shocker again. Pay special attention to the tightness of the case - epoxy can penetrate into invisible crevices and leave difficult to remove stains on any surface.

It's time to start filling the mold with epoxy resin. Set the filled mold aside and wait 6-8 hours. After this time, it will not become hard, but will be flexible enough to give the body the desired ergonomic shape. After complete hardening, treat the epoxy with sandpaper and varnish with any varnish, for example, tsaponlak.

As a result, you will receive a reliable and durable device that is not afraid of shocks, falls and water. How to test it? Take a 0.25 amp fuse and place it between the contacts. After starting the device, the fuse will burn out - this shows that the power of the device exceeds 250 milliamps, which is significant power that can stop even the most zealous and large-sized attacker.

How to make a stun gun?

If we consider self-defense means from the point of view of efficiency, ease of acquisition and use, then a stun gun can be considered the most effective. It does not require licenses or permits from the Ministry of Internal Affairs, and due to its small size and weight it is convenient to carry in your pocket or handbag.

In this article we will look at how a stun gun works and describe how you can make this device with your own hands.

What does a stun gun consist of?

The main elements of the stun gun are the units of the converter, arrester, capacitor and transformer. It works very simply. When you press the button, the charge accumulated in the capacitor enters the transformer, in which its power increases, and a discharge can be seen between the two contacts.

The difficulty in making a stun gun yourself is the transformer. It is almost impossible to make it at home, since it requires special tools, materials and calculations that are simply not widely available. Therefore, we will consider a method for manufacturing a stun gun using a different scheme.

Our stun gun will consist of:

• ignition capacitor;
• output transformer;
• fighting capacitor.

How to make a converter transformer

The transformer is the most complex part of the product, so let's start with it. Winding wire onto a transformer core is a very long, monotonous and delicate process that requires patience and accuracy. First we need a B22 armor core made of 2000NM ferrite.

The armor core is a closed structure, in which there are only holes for wires The core looks like two small cups, between which there is a bobbin, like in a sewing machine. You need to wind a thin enameled wire with a diameter of 0.1 mm around it. It can be found, for example, in an electronic alarm clock. You need to wind it carefully until there is about 1.5 mm of free space left.

For greater efficiency of the transformer, it is better to wind the wire in layers, laying thin electrical tape between them. This way you will get about 5 - 6 layers. After this, you need to insulate everything with two layers of regular electrical tape and wind 6 turns of wire with a diameter of 0.7 - 0.9 mm. On the third turn we make a retraction and finish the remaining three. Finally, we glue the cups together or wrap them with electrical tape.

Making an output transformer

For this we need:

• 5 - 6 cm of polypropylene pipe with a diameter of 20 mm;
• cutter;
• wire with a diameter of about 0.2 mm;
• ferrite rod 2000NM with a diameter of 10 mm and a length of 5 - 6 cm;
• insulating tape.

Along the circumference of our pipe we need to make grooves 2 mm deep and 2 mm wide. Next, take a wire with a diameter of 0.2 mm and wind it around all sections. It is better to glue or solder a stranded wire to the ends of the wire for more convenient connections.

Now you need to take a ferrite rod with a diameter of 100 mm and a length of 5 - 6 cm. This rod needs to be wrapped with electrical tape and wound with 20 turns of wire with a cross section of 0.8 mm. We leave 5 - 10 mm at the edges and insulate everything with several layers of electrical tape so that it fits inside the tube quite tightly.

Now you need to connect the two windings together on the side where the HV winding ends. Thus, we will have 3 outputs instead of 4: common point, end of the first winding and HV terminal.

Transformers are best placed in a box and covered with paraffin. The main thing is not to fill the transformers with hot paraffin, and after pouring you need to place the boxes near the fan heater to remove air bubbles.

How to assemble a stun gun?

We will need a heatsink from a computer on which we need to install a transistor. Radiators need to be insulated, and if there are two radiators, then they need to not touch each other. Can be used as batteries ½ AA NicD batteries. We connect our battery to the capacitor, then to transistors and transformers. We provide an on/off button and place it all in an epoxy housing. It is this material that will best help you make both a regular-sized stun gun and a mini stun gun.

What flowers to give to different zodiac signs

Date of publication: 09.21.2018 Practicality and romanticism, self-demandingness and devotion to loved ones, corrosive perfectionism and breadth of soul, simple-minded directness and bottomless spiritual world - this is all about her, about the mysterious and incomprehensible Virgo. The sixth sign of the Zodi

Every man is concerned about the safety of his loved ones. Firearms and air guns are not always available, nor are they safe. Only electric shock devices can help, which for several decades have been considered the safest and most reliable means for personal self-defense. Traditionally, today we will assemble a low-power and compact stun gun, which is more suitable for ladies.

The power of such a homemade stun gun is not great - 5 watts, but compared to store-bought stun guns with 3 watts, our example is in the lead.

The body itself can be taken any way, I cut a Chinese lantern to the required size, and that’s where I mounted the entire circuit. The stun gun is made according to the traditional design using a high-voltage coil.

The inverter is built on just one powerful field-effect transistor; the circuit is better known as a blocking oscillator. The gate resistor can be selected with a nominal value of 40-820 Ohms.

As a power source I used an assembly of 4 nickel-cadmium batteries with a capacity of 350 mAh, their total voltage is 4.8 Volts. The capacity of such a battery is quite enough to obtain the declared power.

The transformer of the converter is wound on an W-shaped core; it is on the same core that transformers from power supplies for low-power halogen lamps (up to 50 watts) are wound. First you need to carefully disassemble the transformer so as not to damage the core. Then remove all the factory windings and wind a new one.

The primary winding contains 2x4 turns of wire 0.6-0.8 mm, we put insulation on top with 6 layers of thin, transparent tape and wind the step-up winding.
The secondary (boost) winding consists of 650 turns, wound in layers, each layer consisting of 70 turns. Try to wind the turns as carefully as possible (turn to turn is not necessary, just be careful).
Each row of winding is insulated with 4 layers of the same tape. The finished transformer does not need to be filled with epoxy resin.

The high voltage coil is the main part of our circuit. The coil is wound on a ferrite rod (of any brand) with a diameter of 6-8mm (not critical). To begin with, the rod must be carefully insulated with tape, electrical tape and other insulating materials.

The primary winding is wound with 0.7-0.8 mm wire and consists of 14 turns, then you need to insulate the winding with 10 layers of tape and wind the secondary winding.
The secondary contains 500 turns of 0.1 mm wire and is also wound in layers - 70 turns per layer. We lay the interlayer insulation with the same tape. The finished transformer is placed in a syringe (of a convenient diameter) and filled with epoxy resin. You can do without filling, but for reliability it is advisable to fill, especially if you are winding high-voltage transformers for the first time.

High-voltage capacitors with a capacity of 0.1-0.22 µF, I placed two capacitors in series (each 630 Volt 0.22 µF). You should pay attention to the voltage of the capacitor; only those with an operating voltage of 1000 Volts or higher are suitable.

Spark gap - through this gap the capacitance of the capacitor is discharged to the primary winding of the high-voltage coil. I made the arrester from two pieces of 0.8mm wire located one above the other, the distance between them is 1mm (you may have to play with the gap). You can also use industrial arresters with a breakdown voltage of 700-900 Volts.

The switch has three positions - the middle point - both the flashlight and the stun gun are off, the top point - the shocker is on, the bottom point - the flashlight is on.

Flashlight - made of 4 parallel-connected white super-bright LEDs (removed from a Chinese LED flashlight). The field effect transistor can be replaced with IRFZ40, IRFZ46, IRFZ48, IRF3205, IRL3705 or similar.

Rectifier diode - KTs106 with any letter or three series-connected diodes with a reverse voltage of at least 1000 Volts (for each diode), diodes must be pulsed or fast diodes (from pulsed ones FR107/207 are suitable, from ultrafast ones UF4007 is excellent).

Several simple options for proven and working circuits of electric lamps made and designed by yourself. Stun guns come in two basic configurations: straight and L-shaped. There is no substantiated evidence as to which form is better. Some prefer L-shaped ones, because they think that with such a shocker it is easier to touch the enemy. Others choose straight ones, as they give maximum freedom of movement, relatively short or long, reminiscent of a police baton.

Each stun gun circuit and its design are examined in detail, and possible ways to upgrade existing devices are described.

It is associated not only with pain from electric shock. The high voltage accumulated in the shocker, when the arc comes into contact with the skin, is converted into alternating electrical voltage with a specially calculated frequency, forcing the muscles in the contact area to contract extremely quickly. This abnormal muscle overactivity causes rapid breakdown of the blood sugar that feeds the muscles. In other words, the muscles in the contact zone lose their functionality for some time. At the same time, the impulses block the activity of the nerve fibers through which the brain controls these muscles.

Among the popular means of self-defense, stun guns are far from in last place, especially in terms of the strength of their psychological and paralytic effect on the bandit. However, normal industrial designs are quite expensive, which pushes radio amateurs to make stun guns with their own hands.

R1 - 2.2kR2 - 91 OmR3 - 10 mOmR4 - 430 OmC1 - 0.1 x 600VC2 and C3 - 470pf x 25kD1 - kd510D2,3,4 - d247
T1 - on a Ш5x5 core with a magnetic permeability of M 2000 NN or a suitable ferrite ring. Windings I and II - 25 turns of 0.25 mm PEV-2 wire each. Winding III contains 1600 turns of PEV-2 wire with a diameter of 0.07 mm.
T2 on a ring K40x25x11 or K38x24x7 made of M2000 NN ferrite with a sawn gap of 0.8 mm. It is possible without a gap on a ring made of pressed permalloy brands MP140, MP160. Winding I - 3 turns of PEV-2 wire with a diameter of 0.5 mm. Winding II - 130 turns of MGTF wire. The terminals of this winding should be spaced as far apart as possible. After winding, the transformer must be impregnated with varnish or paraffin.

Diagram of the stun gun "Thunder"

The operation of the generator is checked by measuring the voltage at points “A”. Then, by pressing a button, a high-voltage discharge appears. The arrester contacts can be of different designs: flat, sharp, etc. The distance between them is no more than 12 mm. 1000 Volts penetrates 0.5 mm of air.

The device is a generator of high-voltage voltage pulses connected to electrodes and placed in a housing made of dielectric material. The generator consists of 2 series-connected voltage converters (Scheme in Fig. 1). The first converter is an asymmetrical multivibrator based on transistors VT1 and VT2. It is turned on by button SB1. The load of transistor VT1 is the primary winding of transformer T1. The pulses taken from its secondary winding are rectified by the diode bridge VD1-VD4 and charge the battery of storage capacitors C2-C6. The voltage of capacitors C2-C6 when the button SB2 is turned on is the supply for the second converter on the trinistor VS2. Charging capacitor C7 through resistor R3 to the switching voltage of the dinistor VS1 leads to the switching off of the trinistor VS2. In this case, the battery of capacitors C2-C6 is discharged onto the primary winding of transformer T2, inducing a high voltage pulse in its secondary winding. Since the discharge is oscillatory in nature, the polarity of the voltage on the battery C2-C6 is reversed, after which it is restored due to redischarge through the primary winding of transformer T2 and diode VD5. When capacitor C7 is recharged again to the switching voltage of the dinistor VD1, the thyristor VS2 is turned on again and the next high voltage pulse is formed at the output electrodes.

All elements are installed on a board made of foiled fiberglass, as shown in Fig. 2. Diodes, resistors and capacitors are installed vertically. The body can be any suitable sized box made of material that does not allow electricity to pass through.

The electrodes are made of steel needles up to 2 cm long - for access to the skin through human clothing or animal fur. The distance between the electrodes is at least 25 mm.

The device does not require adjustment and operates reliably only with correctly wound transformers. Therefore, follow the rules for their manufacture: transformer T1 is made on a ferrite ring of standard size K10 * 6 * 3 or K10 * 6 * 5 from ferrite grade 2000NN, its winding I contains 30 turns of PEV-20.15 mm wire, and winding II - 400 turns PEV-20.1 mm. The voltage on its primary winding should be 60 volts. The T2 transformer is wound on a frame made of ebonite or plexiglass with an internal diameter of 8 mm, an external diameter of 10 mm, a length of 20 mm, and a jaw diameter of 25 mm. The magnetic core is a section of a ferrite rod for a magnetic antenna 20 mm long and 8 mm in diameter.

Winding I contains 20 turns of PESH (PEV-2) wire - 0.2 mm, and winding II - 2600 turns of PEV-2 with a diameter of 0.07-0.1 mm. First, winding II is wound onto the frame, through each layer of which a varnished fabric gasket is placed (otherwise a breakdown may occur between the turns of the secondary winding), and then the primary winding is wound on top of it. The secondary winding leads are carefully insulated and connected to the electrodes.

List of elements: C1 - 0.047 µF; C2...C6 - 200uF*50V; C7 - 3300pF; R1 - 2.7 kOhm; R2 - 270 MOhm; R3 - 1 MOhm; VT1 - K1501; VT2 - K1312; VS1 - KH102B; VS2 - KU111; VD1...VD5 - KD102A; VS1 and VS2 - P2K (independent, fixed).

Application: If there is a perceived threat to your safety or in advance, press the VS1 button, after which the device begins charging, at this time there is no voltage on the electrodes.

After 1-2 minutes, the electric shock will be fully charged and ready for use. The readiness state is maintained for several hours, then the battery gradually discharges.

At a moment when the danger is beyond doubt, you need to touch the attacker's bare skin and press the VS2 button.

Having received a series of high-voltage blows, the attacker is in a state of shock and horror for several minutes, and is incapable of active action, which gives you a chance to either escape or neutralize the attacker.

The Sword-1 self-defense device is used against a hooligan or robber. When turned on, "Sword-1" emits a loud siren sound, generates dazzling flashes of light, and touching it to open areas of the body results in a strong electric shock (but not fatal!).

Description of the circuit diagram: A siren generator is made on the D1 chip, transistors VT1-VT5. The multivibrator on elements D1.1, D1.2 produces rectangular pulses with a period of 2-3 seconds, which, after integration by the chain R2, R5, R6, C2 through resistor R7, modulate the resistance of the E-K transistor VT1, which causes a frequency deviation of the tone multivibrator by elements D1.3, D1.4. The siren signal from the output of element D1.4 goes to the output of a key power amplifier assembled on transistors VT2-VT5 (composite, with a gain of 750).

The voltage converter for powering the flash lamp and electric discharger is a blocking generator with an increased secondary winding, assembled on elements VT6, T1, R12, C4. It converts 3V DC voltage to 400V AC. Diodes VD1 and VD2 rectify this voltage, electric discharge capacitors C6, C7 and flash capacitor C8 are charged. At the same time, the capacitor of the flash ignition circuit C5 is charged. The neon lamp H1 lights up when the flash is ready. When you press button S3, capacitor C5 is discharged through the primary winding of transformer T2, and a voltage pulse of 5-10 kV appears on its secondary winding, igniting the flash lamp VL1 (flash energy 8.5 J).

“Sword-1” is powered by 4 A-316 elements or 4 CPU K-0.4 5 batteries. In this case, the voltage converter is turned on by switch S2, and the siren by S1.

Transformers

T1 - Armor core B18 made of ferrite 2000NM (without gap). First, a step-up winding V-VI is wound onto the frame turn to turn - 1350 turns of PEV-2 wire = 0.07 mm with insulation with paraffin thin paper every 450 turns. A double layer of paraffin paper is laid on top of the step-up winding, then the windings are wound: I-II - 8 turns PEV-2 = 3 mm. III-IV - 6 turns PEV-2 = 0.3 mm. It is permissible to use a B14 core, made of 2000NM ferrites.
T2 - Rod core =2.8mm L=18mm made of 2000NM ferrite. Brushes made of cardboard, textolite, etc. are attached to the core. material, then wrapped in two layers of varnished cloth. First, step-up winding III-IV is wound - 200 turns PELSHO = 0.1 mm (after 100 turns - insulation with two layers of varnished cloth). Then on top of it is the primary winding I-II - 20 turns of wire PEV-2 = 0.3 mm. Pin 4 of the transformer is connected with a wire in good insulation (MGTF, etc.) to the igniting electrode of the flash lamp VL1. When using parts indicated in brackets or other suitable ones, the dimensions of the device may increase.

Most of the Sword-1 parts are mounted on a single-sided printed circuit board (A1) made of foiled glass PCB. Resistors R4, R10, R11 are installed horizontally on the board, all others are installed vertically. Diodes VD1, VD2 are soldered first, since they are located under the horizontal transistor VT6.

Assembled without errors, "Sword-1" does not need adjustment. Before turning on the power, you must carefully check the correct installation. After this, switch S1 supplies power to the siren and checks its operation. By turning off the siren and turning on SA1, make sure that the voltage converter is working (a quiet whistle should appear). Using trimming resistor R15, the indicator lamp lights up when the voltage on capacitor C8 = 340 volts.

Lack of generation or low output voltage indicates incorrect connection of the windings of transformer T1 or an interturn short circuit. In the first case, you need to swap terminals 3 and 4 of the transformer. In the second case, rewind T1.

When the converter is running and capacitor C8 is charged (indicator H1 is lit), pressing button S3 causes flash lamp VL1 to flash. There will be no flash when pins 1 and 2 of transformer T2 are turned back on or when there is an interturn short circuit. The leads should be swapped, and if this does not help, the transformer should be rewinded.

Structurally, "Sword-1" is made of impact-resistant polystyrene with dimensions of 114x88x34 mm. At the end of the housing there is a reflector window for the VL1 flash lamp and spark gap electrodes (see figure). The arrester consists of an insulating base (plexiglass, polystyrene) 28 mm high and two metal electrodes XS1 and XS2 protruding 3 mm above it. The distance between the electrodes is 10 mm. Switches S1, S2 and button S3 are located on the side surface of the case, and the indicator eye H1 is also located there. The holes for sound from the BA1 speaker are covered with a decorative grille.

The "Sword" device is a variant of the "Sword-1" device and differs from the latter in the absence of a siren generator, power supply from 2 A316 elements and smaller dimensions. The schematic diagram of the "Sword" is shown in Fig. 2. The basis of the circuit is a voltage converter, completely identical to the Sword-1 converter. Those “Sword” elements, the designations of which in the diagram do not coincide with the “Sword-1” diagram, are given in the “Details” section in square brackets, before the designation of the “Sword-1” elements. For example, VT6 KT863A (or KT829).

Here it is an element of the “Sword” circuit, and VT6 is an element of the “Sword-1” circuit.

The Sword parts are mounted on a printed circuit board. The batteries are located on the board between contact plates made of springy metal.

The device body has dimensions of 98x62x28 mm. Location of electrodes, buttons, etc. similar to the location on "Sword-1".

Resistors (MLT-0.125) R1, R5, R7 - 100 Kom; R2 - 200 Kom; R3, R4 - 3.3 Kom; R6, R9 - 56 Kom; R8, R16 - 1.0 Mom; R10, R11 - 3.3 Kom; R12 - 300 ohm; R13 - 240 Kom; R14 - 510 Com.

Construction resistor R15 - SPZ-220 1.0 Mom.

Indicator H1 - IN-35 (any neon).

Dynamic head BA1 - 1GDSH-6 (any with R=4-8 ohms, power > 0.5 W).

Pulse lamp VL1 - FP2-0.015 with reflector. (or IFK-120).

Capacitors C1, C2 - K50-6 16V 1.0 MKf; C3 - KT-1 2200 Pf; C4 - K50-1 50V 1 MKF; C5 - K73-24 250V 0.068 MKF; C6, C7 - K50-35 160V 22 MF; C8 - K50-1.7 400V 150 MF.

Chip D1 - K561LA7 (or K561LE5).

Diodes VD1, VD2 - KD105V (or KTs111A).

Transistors VT1 - KT315G; VT2, VT4 - KT973A; VT3, VT5 - KT972A; VT6 - KT863A (or KT829A).

Schematic diagram. The siren generator is assembled on the DD1 chip. The generation frequency of the generator on DD1.3-DD1.4 changes smoothly. This change is set by the generator on DD1.1-DD1.2, VT1:VT4 - power amplifier. A converter for powering the flash lamp is assembled using transistors VT5-VT6. The generation frequency is about 15 kHz. VD1-VD2 - high voltage rectifier: C6 - storage capacitor. The voltage on it after charging is about 380 Volts.

Construction and details.

KD212A diodes can be replaced with KD226.

Instead of K561LA7, you can use 564LA7, K561LN2 microcircuits, but with a change in the printed circuit board design.

KT361G can be replaced with KT3107 with any letter indices.

KT315G can be replaced with KT342, KT3102 with any letter indices.

Instead of 0.5 GDSh-1, you can install any one with a winding resistance of 4:8 Ohm; it is advisable to choose small-sized ones with higher efficiency.

MP7 buttons or similar.

FP lamp - 0.015 - from the camera kit<Эликон>; you can use IFK80, IFK120, but they have large dimensions.

C1, C2 - brand K53-1, C3-C5 - brand KM-5 or KM-6, C7 - brand K73-17, C6 - brand K50-17-150.0 uF x 400 V. C5 is soldered to pin R7.

Transformer Tr1 is made on an armored ferrite core M2000NM with an outer diameter of 22 mm, an inner diameter of 9 mm and a height of 14 mm, the number of winding turns: I - 2x2 turns PEV-2-0.15; II - 2x8 turns PEV-2-0.3; III - 500 turns PEV-2-0.15. The order of winding the windings is III - II - I.

Tr2 is made on a core with a diameter of 3 mm, a length of 10 mm from the contour coils of the radio receiver: I winding - 10 turns PEV-2-0.2; II - 600 turns PEV-2-0.06. The order of winding the windings is II - I. All windings of the transformer are insulated with a layer of varnished cloth.

The length of the pin part of the arrester is about 20 mm, and the distance between the pins is the same.

Transformers VT5-VT6 are mounted on a 15x15x2 copper plate.

A printed circuit board with parts is installed in a homemade polystyrene case.

Buttons Kn1:Kn3 are fixed in a convenient place on the body.

1. By pressing the Kn1 button, turn on the siren, which sounds at a sufficient volume.

2. By pressing the Kn2 button and holding it pressed for several seconds, the storage capacitor is charged, after which you can:

a - by pressing the Kn3 button, get a powerful flash of light. b - by touching the bare electrodes<Р>to the body of the bully to cause him an electric shock until he loses consciousness.

The scheme, as a rule, starts working immediately. The only operation that may be required is the selection of resistors R7, R8. At the same time, a minimum charging time for capacitor C6 is achieved at an acceptable current consumption, which is within 1 A.

The device consumes significant current during operation, so after using it you need to check the batteries and, if necessary, replace them.

It is necessary to remember to observe safety measures when assembling and operating the device - there is a high potential at the output electrodes of the spark gap.

The high-voltage generator (VG) consists of a powerful push-pull VT1, VT2 self-oscillating converter (AG) 9-400 V; rectifier VD3-VD7; storage capacitor C; discharge pulse former on a unijunction transistor VT3; switch VS n high-voltage pulse transformers T2a, T2b.

The pocket version of the VG is assembled on two printed circuit boards, placed one above the other with the components facing inward. T1 is made on the M1500NMZ 28x16x9 ring. Winding W2 is wound first (400 turns D 0.01) and carefully insulated. Then windings W1a, W1b (10 turns D 0.5) and the base winding Wb (5 turns D 0.01) are wound. T2a (T2b) is made on a 400NN ferrite rod, 8-10 cm long, D 0.8 cm. The rod is pre-insulated, winding W2a (W2b) is wound on top, containing 800-1000 turns D 0.01 and carefully insulated. Windings W1a and W1b (10 turns D 1.0 each) are wound in antiphase. To prevent electrical breakdown, high-voltage transformers are filled with epoxy resin!

Parameter optimization:

The charging power of capacitor C is limited by the maximum power developed (short-term!) by the power supply P = U1I1 (U1=9B, I1=1A), the maximum permissible average current VD3-VD7 I2=CU2/2Tp and VT1-VT2 I1=N1I2. The energy accumulated at the output of the AP E = CU22/2 is determined by the capacitance C (1-10 μF) with acceptable dimensions and operating voltage U2 = N1U1, N1 = W2/W1.

The discharge pulse period Tr = RpCp must be greater than the charge constant Тз = RC.

R limits the AP pulse current I2u = U2/R, I1u = N1I2u.

The voltage of the high-voltage pulse is determined by the ratio of turns T2a (T2b) Uвu = 2n2U2, n2 = w2/w1.

The smallest number of turns w1 is limited by the maximum pulse current VS Ii = U2(2G/L)1/2,

L - inductance w1a (w1b), the highest - electrical strength T2a, T2b (50 V per turn).

The peak discharge power depends on the speed of the VS.

The modes of powerful elements are close to critical. Therefore, the operating time of the VG should be limited. It is allowed to turn on the VG without load (discharge in the air) for no more than 1-3 seconds. The operation of VS and VT3 is first checked with the AP turned off by applying +9V to the VD7 anode. To check the AP, T2a and T2b are replaced with a 20-100 Ohm resistor of sufficient power. If there is no generation, it is necessary to swap the terminals of the winding Wb. You can limit the current consumption of the AP by reducing Wb by selecting R1, R2. A correctly assembled VG must necessarily pierce the internal interelectrode gap of 1.5-2.5 cm.

Adequate precautions must be taken when using VG. High-voltage discharge current pulses through the myelin sheath of the nerve fibers of the skin tissue can be transmitted to the muscles, causing tonic convulsions and spasms. Thanks to synapses, nervous excitation covers other muscle groups, developing reflex shock and functional paralysis. According to U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission sad consequences - flutter and fibrillation of the ventricles with subsequent transition to asystole, ending terminal states - are observed with a discharge with an energy of 10 J. According to unverified information, a 5-second exposure to a high-voltage discharge with an energy of 0.5 J causes total immobilization. Restoration of full muscle control occurs no earlier than after 15 minutes.

Attention: Abroad, similar devices are officially classified as firearms by the Bureau of Tobacco and Firearm.

The high-voltage transformer is wound on a rod from the ferrite antenna of the transistor receiver. The primary winding contains 5+5 turns of PEV-2 wire 0.2-0.3 mm. The secondary winding is wound turn to turn with insulation of each layer (1 turn per 1 volt), 2500–3500 turns.

R1, R2 – 8-12 kOhm
C1, C2 – 20-60 nF
C3 – 180 pF
C4, C5 – 3300 pF – 3.3 kV
D1, D2 – CC 106V
T1, T2 – KT 837

This device is intended for laboratory demonstration testing only. The company is not responsible for any use of this device.

A limited deterrent effect is achieved by exposure to powerful ultrasonic radiation. At high intensities, ultrasonic vibrations produce an extremely unpleasant, irritating and painful effect on most people, causing severe headaches, disorientation, intracranial pain, paranoia, nausea, indigestion, and a feeling of complete discomfort.

The ultrasonic frequency generator is made on D2. Multivibrator D1 generates a triangular signal that controls the frequency swing of D2. The modulation frequency of 6-9 Hz lies in the area of ​​resonances of internal organs.

D1, D2 - KR1006VI1; VD1, VD2 - KD209; VT1 - KT3107; VT2 - KT827; VT3 - KT805; R12 - 10 Ohm;

T1 is made on a ferrite ring M1500NMZ 28x16x9, windings n1, n2 each contain 50 turns D 0.5.

Disable the emitter; disconnect resistor R10 from capacitor C1; set trimmer resistor R9 to pin. 3 D2 frequency 17-20 kHz. Use resistor R8 to set the required modulation frequency (pin 3 D1). The modulation frequency can be reduced to 1 Hz by increasing the capacitance of capacitor C4 to 10 μF; Connect R10 to C1; Connect the emitter. Transistor VT2 (VT3) is installed on a powerful radiator.

As an emitter, it is best to use a specialized piezoceramic head BA, imported or domestic, which provides a sound intensity level of 110 dB at a nominal supply voltage of 12 V: You can use several powerful high-frequency dynamic heads (speakers) BA1...BAN, connected in parallel. To select a head based on the required ultrasound intensity and operating distance, the following technique is proposed.

The average electrical power supplied to the speaker Рср = Е2 / 2R, W, should not exceed the maximum (nameplate) power of the head Рmax, W; E - signal amplitude at the head (meander), V; R - electrical resistance of the head, Ohm. In this case, the effectively supplied electrical power for the radiation of the first harmonic is P1 = 0.4 Рср, W; sound pressure Рзв1 = SдP11/2/d, Pa; d - distance from the center of the head, m; Sd = S0 10(LSd/20) Pa W-1/2; LSd - level of characteristic sensitivity of the head (certificate value), dB; S0 = 2 10-5 Pa W-1/2. As a result, sound intensity I = Npsv12 / 2sv, W/m2; N - number of parallel connected heads, s = 1.293 kg/m3 - air density; v = 331 m/s - speed of sound in air. Sound intensity level L1 = 10 lg (I/I0), dB, I0 = 10-12 I m/m2.

The pain threshold level is considered to be 120 dB, rupture of the eardrum occurs at an intensity level of 150 dB, destruction of the ear at 160 dB (180 dB burns through paper). Similar foreign products emit ultrasound with a level of 105-130 dB at a distance of 1 m.

When using dynamic drivers, it may be necessary to increase the supply voltage to achieve the required intensity level. With an appropriate radiator (needle-shaped with an overall area of ​​2 dm2), the KT827 transistor (metal housing) allows the parallel connection of eight dynamic heads with a coil resistance of 8 0 m each. 3GDV-1; 6GDV-4; 10GI-1-8.

Different people tolerate ultrasound differently. Young people are most sensitive to ultrasound. It’s a matter of taste if you prefer powerful sound radiation instead of ultrasound. To do this, it is necessary to increase the capacity of C2 tenfold. If desired, you can disable frequency modulation by disconnecting R10 from C1.

With increasing frequency, the radiation efficiency of some types of modern piezo emitters increases sharply. With continuous operation for more than 10 minutes, overheating and destruction of the piezocrystal is possible. Therefore, it is recommended to select a supply voltage lower than the nominal one. The required level of sound intensity is achieved by turning on several emitters.

Ultrasonic emitters have a narrow radiation pattern. When using an actuator to protect large premises, the emitter is aimed in the direction of the intended intrusion.

The device is designed for active self-defense by exposing an attacker to a high-voltage electric current. The circuit makes it possible to obtain voltages of up to 80,000 V at the output contacts, which leads to air breakdown and the formation of an electric arc (spark discharge) between the contact electrodes. Since a limited current flows when touching the electrodes, there is no threat to human life.

Due to its small size, an electroshock device can be used as an individual security device or work as part of a security system for the active protection of a metal object (safe, metal door, door lock, etc.). In addition, the design is so simple that it does not require the use of industrial equipment for manufacturing - everything can be easily done at home.

In the device diagram, Fig. 1. A pulse voltage converter is assembled on transistor VT1 and transformer T1. The self-oscillator operates at a frequency of 30 kHz. and in the secondary winding (3) of transformer T1, after rectification by diodes on capacitor C4, a constant voltage of about 800...1000 V is released. The second transformer (T2) allows you to further increase the voltage to the desired value. It works in pulse mode. This is ensured by adjusting the gap in the spark gap F1 so that air breakdown occurs at a voltage of 600...750 V. As soon as the voltage on capacitor C4 (during the charging process reaches this value), the discharge of the capacitor passes through F1 and the primary winding T2.

The energy accumulated on capacitor C4 (transmitted to the secondary winding of the transformer) is determined from the expression:

W = 0.5C x Uc2 = 0.5 x 0.25 x 10-6 x 7002 = 0.061 [J]

where, Uc is the voltage across the capacitor [V];
C is the capacitance of capacitor C4 [F].

Similar industrial devices have approximately the same charge energy or slightly less.

The circuit is powered by four D-0.26 type batteries and consumes a current of no more than 100 mA.

The circuit elements highlighted in dotted lines are a transformerless charger from a 220 V network. To connect the recharging mode, a cord with two corresponding plugs is used. The HL1 LED is an indicator of the presence of voltage in the network, and the VD3 diode prevents the batteries from being discharged through the charger circuits if it is not connected to the network.

The circuit uses the following parts: MLT resistors, capacitors C1 type K73-17V for 400 V, C2 - K50-16 for 25 V. C3 - K10-17, C4 - MBM for 750 V or type K42U-2 for 630 V. High-voltage capacitor (C4) it is not recommended to use other types, since it has to work in a harsh mode (discharge with almost a short circuit), which only these series can withstand for a long time.

Diode bridge VD1 can be replaced with four KD102B diodes, and VD4 and VD5 - with six KD102B diodes connected in series.

Switch SA1 type PD9-1 or PD9-2.

Transformers are homemade and winding in them begins with the secondary winding. The manufacturing process will require precision and a winding device.

Transformer T1 is made on a dielectric frame inserted into the B26 armor core, Fig. 2, made of M2000NM1 (M1500NM1) ferrite. It contains winding I - 6 turns; II - 20 turns with PELSHO wire with a diameter of 0.18 mm (0.12...0.23 mm), in winding III - 1800 turns with PEL wire with a diameter of 0.1 mm. When winding the 3rd winding, it is necessary to lay capacitor dielectric paper every 400 turns, and impregnate the layers with capacitor or transformer oil. After winding the coil, we insert it into the ferrite cups and glue the joint (after making sure that it works). The coil terminals are filled with heated paraffin or wax.

When installing the circuit, it is necessary to observe the phase polarity of the transformer windings indicated on the circuit.

The high-voltage transformer T2 is made on plates of transformer iron assembled in a package, Fig. 3. Since the magnetic field in the coil is not closed, the design eliminates magnetization of the core. Winding is carried out turn to turn (the secondary winding is wound first) II - 1800...2000 turns with PEL wire with a diameter of 0.08...0.12 mm (in four layers), I - 20 turns with a diameter of 0.35 mm. It is better to make interlayer insulation from several turns of thin (0.1 mm) fluoroplastic tape, but capacitor paper is also suitable - it can be obtained from high-voltage non-polar capacitors. After winding the windings, the transformer is filled with epoxy glue. Before pouring, it is advisable to add a few drops of condenser oil (plasticizer) to the glue and mix well. In this case, there should be no air bubbles in the glue filling mixture. And for ease of filling, you will need to make a cardboard frame (dimensions 55x23x20 mm) according to the dimensions of the transformer, where the sealing is performed. A transformer made in this way provides a voltage amplitude of more than 90,000 V in the secondary winding, but it is not recommended to turn it on without a protective spark gap F2, since at such a voltage a breakdown inside the coil is possible.

Any VD3 diode with the following parameters:
- reverse voltage > 1500 V
- leakage current< 10-15 мкА
- forward current > 300 mA
The most suitable parameters: two KD226D diodes connected in series.

Transformer data:
T1 - iron of standard size 20x16x5 (ferrum brand M2000mm W7x7 is possible)

Windings:
I - 28 turns 0.3 mm
II - 1500 turns 0.1 mm
III - 38 turns 0.5 mm

T2 - ferrite core 2000-3000 nm (a piece from a horizontal scanning transformer of a television (TVS), or, in extreme cases, a piece of a rod from a magnetic antenna of a radio receiver).
I - 40 turns 0.5 mm
II - 3000 turns 0.08 - 0.15 mm

This transformer is the most important part of the shocker. The procedure for its manufacture is as follows: the ferrite rod is insulated with two layers of fluoroplastic film (FUM) or fiberglass. After this, winding begins. The turns are laid in hundreds so that turns from adjacent hundreds do not fall on each other: 1000 turns (10 by 100) are wound in one layer, then impregnated with epoxy resin, two layers of fluoroplastic film or varnished cloth are wound and the next layer of wire (1000 turns) is wound on top. in the same way as the first time; insulate again and wind the third layer. As a result, the coil leads are obtained from different sides of the ferrite rod.

Capacitor C2 must withstand a voltage of 1500 V (in extreme cases 1000 V), preferably with as little leakage current as possible. The K arrester consists of two crossed brass plates 1-2 mm wide with a gap between the plates of 1 mm: to provide a discharge of 1 kV (kilovolt).

Setting: First, the converter is assembled with transformer T1 (parts are not connected to winding II) and power is supplied. You should hear a whistle with a frequency of about 5 kHz. Then they bring the terminals of winding II of the transformer one to one (with a small gap of about 1 mm). An electric arc should appear. If you put a piece of paper between these terminals, it will light up. This work must be done carefully, since the voltage on this winding is up to 1.5 kV. If the whistle is not heard in the transformer, then swap the terminals of winding III at T1. After this, connect a diode and capacitor to winding II T1. Turn the power back on. After a few seconds, turn off. Now, using a well-insulated screwdriver, short-circuit the leads of capacitor C2. There should be a loud discharge. This means the converter is working fine. If not, then swap the terminals of winding II T1. After this, you can assemble the entire circuit. During normal operation, the output discharge reaches a length of 30 mm. With resistor R1 = 2...10 Ohms, you can increase the power of the device (by decreasing this resistor) or decrease it (by increasing its resistance). The battery used is a Krona type battery (preferably imported), which has a large capacity and provides a current of up to 3 A in short-term mode.

Transformer T1 is wound on ferrite M2000NM-1 of standard size Ш7х7,
Windings: I - 28 turns 0.35 mm.
II - 38 turns 0.5 mm.
III - 1200 turns 0.12 mm.

Transformer T2 on a rod 8 mm and 50 mm long.
I - 25 turns 0.8 mm.
II - 3000 turns 0.12 mm.

Capacitors C2, C3 must withstand voltages up to 600 V.

A single-ended voltage converter is assembled on transistor VT1, which is rectified by diode VD1 and charges capacitors C2 and C3. As soon as the voltage on C3 reaches the operating threshold of dinistor VS1, it opens and opens thyristor VS2. In this case, capacitor C2 is discharged through the primary winding of high-voltage transformer T2. A high voltage pulse occurs on its secondary winding. So the process is repeated with a frequency of 5-10 Hz. Diode VD2 serves to protect thyristor VS2 from breakdown.

The setting consists of selecting resistor R1 to achieve the optimal ratio between current consumption and converter power. By replacing the VS1 dinistor with another one, with a higher or lower operating voltage, you can adjust the frequency of high-voltage discharges.

Production - Korea.
Output voltage - 75 kV.
Power - 6 V.
Weight - 380 g.

The master oscillator is assembled on transistor VT1.

Transformer T1 data:
- ferrum core M2000 20x30 mm;
I - 16 turns 0.35 mm, tap from the 8th turn
II - 500 turns 0.12 mm.

Transformer T2 data:
I - 10 turns 0.8 mm.
II - 2800 turns 0.012 mm.

Transformer T2 is wound in five layers of 560 turns per layer. Although instead of this transformer you can take an ignition coil from a car. The transformer is the most important part of the shocker. The procedure for its manufacture is as follows: the ferrite rod is insulated with two layers of fluoroplastic film (FUM) or fiberglass. After this, winding begins. The turns are laid in hundreds so that turns from adjacent hundreds do not fall on each other: 1000 turns (10 by 100) are wound in one layer, then impregnated with epoxy resin, two layers of fluoroplastic film or varnished cloth are wound and the next layer of wire (1000 turns) is wound on top. in the same way as the first time; insulate again and wind the third layer. As a result, the coil leads are obtained from different sides of the ferrite rod.

Next comes impregnation with epoxy again, three layers of insulation, and 40 turns of 0.5-0.8 mm wire are wound on top. This transformer can only be turned on after the epoxy resin has cured. Do not forget about this, because it will be “pierced” by high voltage.

The setting consists of selecting R2 until the voltage on C4 is 500 Volts, with dinistors VD2, VD3 turned off. When you press the button, the blocking generator starts working, and a voltage appears at the output of T1, which reaches 600 V. Through VD1, C4 begins to charge, and as soon as the voltage on it reaches the threshold of the dinistors, they open, the current in the primary circuit reaches 2A, the voltage on C4 drops sharply, the dinistors close and the process repeats with a frequency of 10-15 Hz.

The basis of the device is a DC-DC converter (Fig. 1). At the output of the device, I used a multiplier using KTs-106 diodes and 220 pF x 10 kV capacitors. Power is supplied by 10 D-0.55 batteries. With smaller ones, the result is slightly worse. You can also use Krona or Corundum batteries. It is important to have 9-12 volts.

I - 2 x 14 dia. 0.5-0.8 mm.
II - 2 x 6 dia. 0.5-0.8 mm.
III - 5-8 thousand dia. 0.15-0.25 mm.

Batteries are convenient only because they can be charged.

A very important element is the transformer, which I made from a ferrite core (ferrite rod from a radio receiver with a diameter of 8 mm), but the transformer from ferrite from a TVS worked more efficiently - I made a U-shaped bar from a U-shaped one.

I took the rules for winding a high-voltage winding from ("Electric Match") - I laid insulation every thousand turns. For interturn insulation I used FUM (fluoroplastic) tape. In my opinion, other materials are less reliable. While experimenting, I tried electrical tape, mica, and used PELSHO wire. The transformer did not last long - the windings were pierced.

The case was made from a plastic box of suitable dimensions - plastic packaging from an electric soldering iron. Original dimensions: 190 x 50 x 40 mm (see Fig. 2).

In the case, I made plastic partitions between the transformer and the multiplier, as well as between the electrodes on the solder side - precautions to avoid the passage of a spark inside the circuit (case), which also protects the transformer. On the outside, under the electrodes, I placed small “antennae” made of brass to reduce the distance between the electrodes - a discharge is formed between them. In my design, the distance between the electrodes is 30 mm, and the length of the crown is 20 mm. A spark is formed without a “whisker” - between the electrodes, but there is a danger of breakdown of the transformer and its formation inside the housing. I spotted the idea of ​​a “mustache” on “branded” models.

To avoid self-switching on while wearing, it is more advisable to use a slide-type switch.

I would like to warn radio amateurs about the need for careful handling of the product, both during the design and adjustment period, and with the finished device. Remember that it is directed against a bully, a criminal, but, at the same time, against a person. Exceeding the limits of necessary defense is punishable by law.

The basis of the device is a DC-DC converter. It is made according to the circuit of a push-pull pulse generator using transistors VT1 and VT2. It is loaded with the primary winding of the transformer. The secondary one serves for feedback. Tertiary - increasing. When you press the KH1 button, a constant voltage of 400V appears on capacitor C2. The role of a voltage multiplier is performed by the ignition coil from the Moskvich-412 car.

When you press the button, voltage is supplied to the generator, and a high alternating voltage is induced in its output winding, which is converted by diode VD1 into an increasing constant voltage on C2. As soon as C2 is charged to 300V, the dinistors VD2 and VD3 open and a current pulse appears in the primary winding of the ignition coil, as a result in the secondary there will be a high voltage pulse with an amplitude of several tens of kilovolts. The use of an ignition coil is due to its reliability, and in this case there is no need for labor-intensive winding of a homemade coil. But the diode multiplier is not very reliable. Transformer Tr1 is wound on a ferite ring with an outer diameter of 28 mm. Its primary winding contains 30 turns of PEV 0.41 with a tap from the middle. Secondary - 12 turns with a tap from the middle of the same wire. Tertiary - 800 turns of PEV 0.16 wire. The rules for winding such a transformer are known

This device can be used to protect against attacks by wild animals (and not only animals). Most of these devices are based on a pulse generator and a high-voltage transformer with a homemade coil, which is not easy to manufacture or durable.

This device simulates the ignition system of a car. An automobile ignition coil, a nine-volt battery of six A373 cells, and a breaker with a capacitor on an electromagnetic relay are used. The operation of the chopper is controlled by a multivibrator on a DI chip and a switch on transistor VT1. The entire device is mounted in a plastic pipe about 500 mm long and the diameter is the same as the ignition coil. The coil is located at the working end (with two pins from a 220V plug and discharge petals between them.), and the battery is on the opposite side of the pipe, with an electronic unit between them. Turning on is a button installed between the battery elements. The ignition coil can be from any car, the electromagnetic relay can also be from a car, for example, a sound signal relay from a VAZ 08 or Moskvich 2141.

Attention: Be careful when operating the devices; the voltage on the electrodes remains for 20-40 seconds after switching off.

A set of fresh A316 elements is enough for 20-30 starts of the device for 0.5-1 minutes each. Replace items promptly. In case of danger, turn on the voltage converter. After 2-3 seconds, the voltage on the electrodes will reach 300 V. You should press the flash button no earlier than the indicator lights up (5-12 seconds after turning on the converter). Use the flash from a distance of no more than 1.5 meters, pointing the lamp at the attacker’s eyes. Immediately after the flash, you can deliver an electric shock.

For any person, the issue of protecting oneself and loved ones is quite acute. And although the market offers many options for solving it, not every one of them can suit you, and this entails the need to look for ways to resolve it yourself. One of the good options for ensuring your own safety is an electric shocker, which other craftsmen manage to make at home.

The concept of "electric shocker"

A stun gun is a special electrical device used as a self-defense weapon to stop or neutralize an attacking person or animal by delivering a high-power electrical discharge. Such a discharge causes numbness in the aggressor’s muscles and a strong pain effect, which paralyzes the attacker for some time. This device is produced in different shapes, capacities and price categories. Persons who have reached the age of majority are allowed to purchase and carry a stun gun with a power of up to 3 W, without the need to present any additional documents, certificates or permits. More powerful devices are intended for special services.

The most reliable are, naturally, factory-assembled devices, but people who are well versed in radio engineering can try to make a stun gun with their own hands, since there are plenty of manuals and diagrams, and getting the necessary parts is also not difficult.

Parts required to assemble a stun gun

The main part of the device is a voltage converter made in accordance with the blocking generator circuit. In this case, one field-effect transistor with reverse conductivity of the IRF3705 brand is used (you can take a transistor IRFZ44, IRFZ46, IRFZ48 or IRL3205). It is also necessary to ensure the presence of a 100 Ohm gate resistor with a declared power of 0.5-1 W, high-voltage capacitors with a capacity of 0.1-0.22 μF (for series connection of two 630 V capacitors) and with an operating voltage above 1000 V, a spark gap ( industrial or homemade from two pieces of wire 0.8 mm thick placed one above the other, with a gap of 1 mm), rectifier diode KTs106. If you have all the necessary components, the task of how to make a stun gun will not cause any difficulties for a true craftsman.

How to make a transformer correctly

To assemble the converter, you need to properly make its main component - the step-up transformer. To do this, take, for example, a core from a switching power supply. Having carefully freed it from the old winding, carefully wind the new one. The primary winding is made with a wire with a diameter of 0.5-0.8 mm, applying 12 turns and moving away from the middle (wind 6 turns, twist the wire, make another 6 turns in the same direction). Then you need to insulate it with transparent tape, making 5 layers of it. A secondary winding is placed on top, making 600 turns with a wire with a diameter of 0.08-0.1 mm, applying two layers of adhesive tape for insulation every 50 turns. This will protect the transformer from breakdowns. Both windings are made strictly in the same direction. For better insulation, you can fill the entire structure with epoxy resin. A wire with stranded insulated wires must be soldered to the terminals from the secondary winding. It is recommended to place the resulting transistor on an aluminum heat sink.

The procedure for assembling a homemade stun gun

After manufacturing the converter, it is tested by assembling a circuit that does not include the high-voltage part. If the transformer is assembled correctly, the output will be a “burning current”. Then the voltage multiplier is soldered. Capacitors are selected with a voltage of at least 3 kV and a capacity of 4700 pF. The diodes in the multiplier are high-voltage ones, grade KTs106 (these are found in multipliers from old Soviet TVs).

By connecting the multiplier with the converter according to the circuit, you can turn on the resulting device, the arc should be 1-2 cm with the required characteristics and fairly loud clicks with a frequency of 300-350 Hz should be heard.

As a power source, you can use a lithium-ion battery, as in mobile phones (their capacity must be at least 600 mA), or nickel batteries with a voltage of 1.2 V. The capacity of such batteries should be enough for two minutes of continuous operation of the device with output power up to 7 W and voltage across the arresters more than 10 kV.

Mount the circuit in some suitable plastic case, covering the high-voltage section of the circuit with silicone for reliability. You can use a cut fork, nails or screws as bayonets. The circuit must also contain a switch and a non-latching button to prevent accidental switching on. As can be seen from the above, assembling a high-quality, reliable and powerful device requires quite serious skills, therefore, first of all, people versed in radio electronics should think about how to make a stun gun on their own.

How to make a stun gun from a battery

If you need a simpler way to assemble a stun gun, you can literally make it from available radio parts. To do this you will need: a regular nine-watt Krona battery, a transformer (it can be taken from the mains adapter or charger), an ebonite rod 30-40 centimeters long. A do-it-yourself stun gun is assembled as follows: two pieces of steel wire about 5 cm long are attached to the end of the ebonite rod using electrical tape, connected by wires to a transformer and a Krona battery. The battery is connected to the two-pin terminal of the transformer (where a current of 6-9 V comes out). A small push-button switch is attached to the other end of the rod, when pressed, a high-voltage arc appears between the steel antennae (it jumps at the moment when the circuit with the battery in the small winding opens, that is, to create a visible arc you need to press the switch 25 times per second ). Despite the high voltage created in this design, the current strength will be very small, so such a stun gun can become more of a means of intimidation than protection.

How to make a stun gun from an electric lighter

If you know how to make a stun gun, then a small, low-power intimidation device can be assembled using a simple electric lighter for gas stoves. How to make a mini stun gun using it is described below.

In addition to the electric lighter itself, you will need a metal clip and glue, as well as a soldering iron, and everything you need for soldering. First of all, they disassemble it and cut off the tube using a metal blade, leaving only the handle with two wires sticking out. They are cut with wire cutters to a protruding length of 1-2 cm. Having exposed the wires and treated them with flux, two pieces cut from a metal clip are soldered to them. The antennae are slightly bent with wire cutters and the entire finished structure is glued in front with glue to insulate it. Such a shocker is low-power and is not suitable for serious self-defense.

Stun gun made from electric lighters for gas stoves

Knowing the structure of electric lighters and having a little understanding of radio technology, you can understand how to make a stun gun from a lighter. To do this, you need to take four electric lighters (more precisely, high-voltage coils and converter boards), three AA batteries or accumulators, a flashlight body or a tube with a diameter of 25 mm. Craftsmen suggest connecting these parts together, adding arresters and a switch to the circuit, which will allow you to assemble a stun gun with your own hands without much hassle. Each of the transformers is connected to two separate contacts, and the entire contents are placed in a plastic case. It is assumed that with this method of assembly, four flashes should be produced simultaneously on the spark gaps.

Film camera stun gun

To figure out how to make a stun gun with your own hands, you can remember an old unnecessary film camera - a “soap box”. It can be converted into a device that produces one-fourth the energy of a professional shocker. To do this, you need to unscrew the camera, remove the batteries and find a small flash bulb. After this, it is disconnected from the wires, and in place of the flash, two pieces of copper wire - with a thick layer of insulation and 8-10 cm long - are connected to these wires using soldering. You need to make sure that these wires protruding from the camera do not touch. The batteries are placed in place, and after the manipulations have been done, the camera body is insulated with some kind of plastic coating so that only the dischargers in the form of copper antennae and the flash and shutter buttons are visible from it. Now, when releasing the shutter, you can get sparks on the arrester wires.

Thus, there are several ways to make a stun gun at home, it all depends on your knowledge of radio engineering, skill and available source material. When working, it is imperative to observe safety precautions, since the work is mainly associated with high voltage and power electric current.

For any person, the issue of protecting oneself and loved ones is quite acute. And although the market offers many options for solving it, not every one of them can suit you, and this entails the need to look for ways to resolve it yourself. One of the good options for ensuring your own safety is an electric shocker, which other craftsmen manage to make at home.

The concept of "electric shocker"

A stun gun is a special electrical device used as a self-defense weapon to stop or neutralize an attacking person or animal by delivering a high-power electrical discharge. Such a discharge causes numbness in the aggressor’s muscles and a strong pain effect, which paralyzes the attacker for some time. This device is produced in different shapes, capacities and price categories. Persons who have reached the age of majority are allowed to purchase and carry a stun gun with a power of up to 3 W, without the need to present any additional documents, certificates or permits. More powerful devices are intended for special services.

The most reliable are, naturally, factory-assembled devices, but people who are well versed in radio engineering can try to make a stun gun with their own hands, since there are plenty of manuals and diagrams, and getting the necessary parts is also not difficult.

Parts required to assemble a stun gun

The main part of the device is a voltage converter made in accordance with the blocking generator circuit. In this case, one field-effect transistor with reverse conductivity of the IRF3705 brand is used (you can take a transistor IRFZ44, IRFZ46, IRFZ48 or IRL3205). It is also necessary to ensure the presence of a 100 Ohm gate resistor with a declared power of 0.5-1 W, high-voltage capacitors with a capacity of 0.1-0.22 μF (for series connection of two 630 V capacitors) and with an operating voltage above 1000 V, a spark gap ( industrial or homemade from two pieces of wire 0.8 mm thick placed one above the other, with a gap of 1 mm), rectifier diode KTs106. If you have all the necessary components, the task of how to make a stun gun will not cause any difficulties for a true craftsman.

How to make a transformer correctly

To assemble the converter, you need to properly make its main component - the step-up transformer. To do this, take, for example, a core from a switching power supply. Having carefully freed it from the old winding, carefully wind the new one. The primary winding is made with a wire with a diameter of 0.5-0.8 mm, applying 12 turns and moving away from the middle (wind 6 turns, twist the wire, make another 6 turns in the same direction). Then you need to insulate it with transparent tape, making 5 layers of it. A secondary winding is placed on top, making 600 turns with a wire with a diameter of 0.08-0.1 mm, applying two layers of adhesive tape for insulation every 50 turns. This will protect the transformer from breakdowns. Both windings are made strictly in the same direction. For better insulation, you can fill the entire structure with epoxy resin. A wire with stranded insulated wires must be soldered to the terminals from the secondary winding. It is recommended to place the resulting transistor on an aluminum heat sink.

The procedure for assembling a homemade stun gun

After manufacturing the converter, it is tested by assembling a circuit that does not include the high-voltage part. If the transformer is assembled correctly, the output will be a “burning current”. Then the voltage multiplier is soldered. Capacitors are selected with a voltage of at least 3 kV and a capacity of 4700 pF. The diodes in the multiplier are high-voltage ones, grade KTs106 (these are found in multipliers from old Soviet TVs).

By connecting the multiplier with the converter according to the circuit, you can turn on the resulting device, the arc should be 1-2 cm with the required characteristics and fairly loud clicks with a frequency of 300-350 Hz should be heard.

As a power source, you can use a lithium-ion battery, as in mobile phones (their capacity must be at least 600 mA), or nickel batteries with a voltage of 1.2 V. The capacity of such batteries should be enough for two minutes of continuous operation of the device with output power up to 7 W and voltage across the arresters more than 10 kV.

Mount the circuit in some suitable plastic case, covering the high-voltage section of the circuit with silicone for reliability. You can use a cut fork, nails or screws as bayonets. The circuit must also contain a switch and a non-latching button to prevent accidental switching on. As can be seen from the above, assembling a high-quality, reliable and powerful device requires quite serious skills, therefore, first of all, people versed in radio electronics should think about how to make a stun gun on their own.

How to make a stun gun from a battery

If you need a simpler way to assemble a stun gun, you can literally make it from available radio parts. To do this you will need: a regular nine-watt Krona battery, a transformer (it can be taken from the mains adapter or charger), an ebonite rod 30-40 centimeters long. A do-it-yourself stun gun is assembled as follows: two pieces of steel wire about 5 cm long are attached to the end of the ebonite rod using electrical tape, connected by wires to a transformer and a Krona battery. The battery is connected to the two-pin terminal of the transformer (where a current of 6-9 V comes out). A small push-button switch is attached to the other end of the rod, when pressed, a high-voltage arc appears between the steel antennae (it jumps at the moment when the circuit with the battery in the small winding opens, that is, to create a visible arc you need to press the switch 25 times per second ). Despite the high voltage created in this design, the current strength will be very small, so such a stun gun can become more of a means of intimidation than protection.

How to make a stun gun from an electric lighter

If you know how to make a stun gun, then a small, low-power intimidation device can be assembled using a simple electric lighter for gas stoves. How to make a mini stun gun using it is described below.

In addition to the electric lighter itself, you will need a metal clip and glue, as well as a soldering iron, and everything you need for soldering. First of all, they disassemble it and cut off the tube using a metal blade, leaving only the handle with two wires sticking out. They are cut with wire cutters to a protruding length of 1-2 cm. Having exposed the wires and treated them with flux, two pieces cut from a metal clip are soldered to them. The antennae are slightly bent with wire cutters and the entire finished structure is glued in front with glue to insulate it. Such a shocker is low-power and is not suitable for serious self-defense.

Stun gun made from electric lighters for gas stoves

Knowing the structure of electric lighters and having a little understanding of radio technology, you can understand how to make a stun gun from a lighter. To do this, you need to take four electric lighters (more precisely, high-voltage coils and converter boards), three AA batteries or accumulators, a flashlight body or a tube with a diameter of 25 mm. Craftsmen suggest connecting these parts together, adding arresters and a switch to the circuit, which will allow you to assemble a stun gun with your own hands without much hassle. Each of the transformers is connected to two separate contacts, and the entire contents are placed in a plastic case. It is assumed that with this method of assembly, four flashes should be produced simultaneously on the spark gaps.

Film camera stun gun

To figure out how to make a stun gun with your own hands, you can remember an old unnecessary film camera - a “soap box”. It can be converted into a device that produces one-fourth the energy of a professional shocker. To do this, you need to unscrew the camera, remove the batteries and find a small flash bulb. After this, it is disconnected from the wires, and in place of the flash, two pieces of copper wire - with a thick layer of insulation and 8-10 cm long - are connected to these wires using soldering. You need to make sure that these wires protruding from the camera do not touch. The batteries are placed in place, and after the manipulations have been done, the camera body is insulated with some kind of plastic coating so that only the dischargers in the form of copper antennae and the flash and shutter buttons are visible from it. Now, when releasing the shutter, you can get sparks on the arrester wires.

Thus, there are several ways to make a stun gun at home, it all depends on your knowledge of radio engineering, skill and available source material. When working, it is imperative to observe safety precautions, since the work is mainly associated with high voltage and power electric current.