How to build a barn at the dacha with your own hands. How to make a barn with your own hands from boards without a foundation - step-by-step instructions Build a utility block at the dacha with your own hands step-by-step

A barn is one of the most important and useful outbuildings. In this building you can store various kinds of garden supplies, barbecue, garden and home care products, and tools. If you really want to, you can even install a toilet and a summer shower in the barn.

With proper preparation, building a shed will not take much time or money. There are several types of such outbuildings. Beginners are recommended to give preference to frame structures - they are the easiest to construct.

Instructions for arranging a frame shed will be given below. Read the instructions and get started.

Choosing a location for a shed

When choosing a location for your shed, use personal preference. Some owners prefer it when the barn is located in some nook of the site. For others, it is more convenient when the barn is located next to the house.

It is most rational to build a shed on an area that is least suitable for growing garden and various types of agricultural crops. You can find a similar place in almost any area.

At the stage of choosing a place for arranging a shed, take into account the location of other zones of the land plot, take into account the dimensions of the building being erected and its external data. Try to ensure that the shed fits well into its surroundings and blends harmoniously with nearby buildings.

Set for work

1. Wood processing machine. You can do without a machine, but with it the work will be faster and easier.
2. Electric jigsaw.
3. Hand-held circular saw.
4. Electric planer.
5. Screwdriver.
6. Electric drill.
7. Chain Saw.
8. Boards.
9. Logs.
10. Ruberoid.
11. Fastening elements.
12. Switches.
13. PVA glue.
14. Sockets.
15. Oilcloth.

Prices for various types of construction boards

Construction boards

Foundation

Any building structure needs a reliable and durable foundation that can support its weight.

Columnar, monolithic, strip and pile-screw type bases are suitable for arranging a shed. A columnar foundation is suitable in most cases, so experts recommend giving preference to this particular design.

Mark the area for the foundation. Any suitable pegs, cord and tape measure will help you with this.

Using a tape measure, measure the sides of the figure and its diagonals. The length of the elements must be the same.

Dig holes 500-700 mm deep around the perimeter of the marked area, in the corners, as well as at the intersection points of the internal partitions (sometimes deeper, depending on the level of soil freezing) for installation. The optimal spacing of the pillars is 1.2-1.5 m.

Build supports from asbestos pipes filled with reinforcement and concrete, or brick pillars - choose at your discretion.

Make sure that the pillars are installed evenly using a building level, fill the space around the pillars in the pits with a sand-gravel mixture to approximately 150 mm of the height of the recess, and fill the remaining space.

Leave the foundation to gain strength for several days.

Before backfilling and concreting, you can treat the support columns with a special mastic. It will help improve the waterproofing of the base and extend its service life.

Start assembling the frame of the future shed. Pre-soak all wooden elements with an antiseptic. The best option is impregnation with color. This product is simply more convenient to use - untreated areas will be clearly visible.

Place a timber support on the dry base. Select the dimensions of the timber in accordance with the dimensions of the shed being built.

Base - foundation and perimeter made of timber

Lay the timber on support posts, previously covered with waterproofing material (roofing felt). Fasten the columns in any suitable way at your discretion.

Lay wooden boards 3-4 cm thick on the frame. At this stage of work, the main thing is to cut out parts of the boards near the vertical posts as carefully as possible.

Attach the boards to the floorboards “in secret”.

When determining the required number of support posts, take into account the presence of openings for installing double-glazed windows and doors, as well as the number of corners of the structure.

Place the beams strictly according to the building level. For leveling, use slope sticks. They will allow you to provide temporary fixation of the bars in the required position. Use nails to temporarily fasten elements together. Hammer them in approximately half the length so that in the future there will be no difficulties in dismantling the temporary supports.

Attach vertical support posts to the bottom frame frame. Fixation is carried out using corners, self-tapping screws, and pins extending from the base.

The frame can also be built on brick supports. In this case, first, several rows of brickwork are built around the perimeter of the foundation, and then wooden vertical posts are installed on them.

Use an electric planer to plan the three inner sides of the vertical beam. Bevel the sides facing the interior of the shed. Leave untreated only the sides that will later be sheathed with external boards.

Roofing and wall cladding

Attach the top portion of the shed frame to the exposed vertical support posts. Pre-prepare cuts in the timber according to the size of the posts. Fix the connections with corners and self-tapping screws.

Traditionally, barns are equipped with roofing structures. In this case, the length of the wooden posts on one side should exceed the length of the opposite supports.

This placement will further contribute to the effective removal of sedimentary moisture from the roof surface.

Build a roofing structure from boards 4-5 cm thick. The length of the rafters should be approximately 50 cm longer than the length of the frame.

In the places where the rafters meet the beams, make cuts first. Lay the rafters on the frame and secure with self-tapping screws. The installation pitch of the rafters is 40-50 cm.

Treat the frame with an antiseptic. Attach batten boards to the frame. Boards measuring 2.5x15 cm are optimal.

A roof made of boards requires a mandatory layer arrangement. Traditionally, roofing felt is used for moisture insulation. If you plan to install a more beautiful finishing coating, use polyethylene film for waterproofing.

Choose the finishing coating at your discretion. You can lay corrugated sheets, euro slate, etc.

Lining is suitable for covering the walls of a building; chipboard, boards and other similar materials can also be fixed. First, sheathe the front side of the shed, and then line the side and rear walls. Attach the boards without gaps.

If necessary, sand the outside of the boards with an electric planer. Typically, such treatment is only needed when covering walls with boards. Thanks to this, the material will become more attractive in appearance, and rain will linger much less on a smooth surface.

If you wish, you can paint the walls of the shed. Oil and water-based compositions are best suited for painting such buildings.

Carry out the interior arrangement of the finished shed at your own discretion. If the building is intended to store various kinds of tools and accessories, install convenient racks and shelves around the perimeter. Shelving allows you to make the most of the available space and easily access the things you need.

You can buy racks and shelves ready-made or make them yourself, for example, from boards, fiberboard, leftover furniture, etc.

At this point the barn is ready. All you have to do is bring it to it, if necessary, and install the required devices.

Good luck!

Prices for popular types of corrugated sheets

Corrugated sheet

Video - How to build a barn with your own hands

It is difficult to imagine a country house or dacha without outbuildings. Gardening tools, summer swings, hammocks and folding furniture are stored in the sheds; farm animals and poultry can also be housed here, hay and feed can be stored. As a rule, outbuildings are constructed from materials that remain after the construction of the house. The owner can only choose a drawing of the barn, decide on its size and roof structure.

Barn construction

The most optimal size for an outbuilding is 3x6 meters. This area is even enough to build a summer shower and toilet inside the building, and you can also arrange a summer kitchen here.

You can make a drawing of a shed using photos found on the Internet, or come up with your own original shed, and then transfer the idea to paper. It is not recommended to build even the simplest buildings without a drawing. After all, all the dimensions and inconsistencies will become visible on paper.

The roofs of barns are most often made pitched. A flat roof retains too much precipitation and snow masses and requires careful waterproofing. Roofs of complex shapes are also inappropriate for sheds, because this building is not intended to decorate the site, but to serve household needs.

The optimal solution for a shed would be a pitched roof. Unlike a gable roof, there is no need to install a ridge; you will need half as many rafters. It is easier to assemble a pitched roof, and precipitation and snow disappear from it very quickly, without threatening the waterproofing.

Important! The angle of inclination of a pitched roof should be greater than 18 degrees. Such a slope will allow precipitation to freely leave the roof and protect the structure from winds and cold.

The optimal value of the pitched roof angle is 18-25 degrees.

The walls of an outbuilding can be erected from absolutely any materials, it can be:

• brick;
• foam concrete or aerated concrete;
• boards;
• plywood or MDF mounted on a wooden frame (frame type building).

Shed made of foam blocks

If you need to buy materials for building a shed, it is better to opt for foam concrete. Porous blocks have many advantages over other building materials:

• do not burn;
• do not absorb moisture;
• are light in weight;
• There are several standard sizes, from which it is easy to choose the best option for a small building;
• have higher strength and heat capacity than bricks;
• can allow air to pass through no worse than wooden walls;
• absolutely safe and non-toxic.

Despite the lightness of foam blocks, it is imperative to build a foundation for the shed. Considering the size of the building (3x6) and the weight of the structures, it is better to choose a strip foundation. For stable, dry soils, a columnar base is also suitable.

A strip foundation for a small outbuilding is poured to a depth of about 40-60 cm, and it is necessary to take into account the depth of soil freezing on the site in winter.

The ground at the site chosen for construction is cleared of debris, roots and vegetation. They mark the perimeter of the barn and dig a trench for the strip foundation.

A “cushion” of sand, crushed stone and gravel is poured into the bottom of the trench and compacted thoroughly. Now you need to secure the formwork for the foundation from old boards, plywood or slate. Metal reinforcement is installed inside the boxes, which should strengthen the foundation.

Concrete is poured. The solution is pierced in several places with a metal pin, ridding the foundation of excess air. Now you need to leave the foundation for several weeks so that the concrete can gain the necessary strength.

Once the concrete has dried, you can begin building the walls. First lay out the bottom belt.

Attention! Blocks or bricks of the bottom row must be placed on a layer of waterproofing. The strip foundation is covered with a layer of roofing material or coated with bitumen mastic so that moisture from the concrete does not get onto the walls of the barn.

In accordance with the building drawing, the walls are laid out, making window and door openings. The outbuilding box made of foam blocks is ready.

Wooden barn

Much more often it turns out that the owner has leftover wood, and he decides to build a wood shed. For such work, at least minimal carpentry skills are required, because you will have to work with both a saw and a plane.

A building made of wood weighs very little; a columnar foundation can serve as its base. To do this, markings are made on the site, transferring the perimeter of the future building to the ground.

Posts are installed at the corners of the barn. Several more supports should be located in the center of the rectangle. The distance between the supports is 80-120 cm (depending on the size of the shed and the type of soil on the site).

The depth of the supports depends on the level of soil freezing in the construction region; on average, it is 40-60 cm. After the trenches for the supports are dug or drilled, wooden formwork is installed in them, a sand and gravel “cushion” is filled in, and metal reinforcement is laid.

Now you need to pour the concrete. After 5-6 days, when the foundation has hardened, you can dismantle the formwork and begin building walls.

First, you need to make the bottom frame of the building from timber. Before laying the wood, the foundation supports are covered with a double layer of roofing felt. At the corners, the timber is connected with metal brackets and checked for level.

Install vertical supports in the corners of the barn, always checking the level. They are fixed with temporary spacers. Taking into account the door and window openings, the entire frame of the barn is assembled from wooden beams.

No matter the size of the house, you can’t do without a shed on the site. Not everything can and should be brought into the house, even if there is space, and even if there is not, then even more so - outbuildings are necessary. By the way, this may be your first experience in independent construction: you can build a shed with your own hands without any skills. The main thing is that the hands grow from the right place.

What materials are they built from?

If the shed is located close to the house and you care about its appearance, it makes sense to use the same material as when building the house. If you don’t want to spend a large amount on outbuildings, you can choose the finish so that you can’t tell it from a distance. In most cases, this is not very difficult: there are many technologies and many materials very accurately reproduce the appearance of expensive finishing materials. A striking example of this is. It is available for logs, beams, bricks, stones with different textures. So you don’t have to use expensive materials to build a shed. It is more practical to use inexpensive construction technology, and then cover it with material with a texture similar to the finishing of the main building.

How to quickly and cheaply build a shed

The fastest and at the same time inexpensive option for building a shed is by. The frame can be wooden or, it is sheathed on the outside with finishing, a roof is installed and that’s it, the barn is ready. If the barn is planned to be made of wood, it is assembled from timber and boards. A metal shed can be more conveniently made from a profiled pipe: it has a square section and is much easier to weld and join. There is also a special metal frame. It is assembled using self-tapping screws, and the entire structure is ordered and manufactured at the factory. Such houses are considered the cheapest; barns are unlikely to be expensive. Assembling both a metal and wooden shed takes several days: it has been tested more than once.

The frame building is lightweight, so the foundation for the barn needs a lightweight one. In most cases, columns and concrete blocks are sufficient; sometimes screw piles are installed or bored piles are made. On more difficult soils and for those who love reliability, you can build a monolithic or prefabricated () shallow strip foundation.

Another option. It is suitable for soils from which water drains well, and the groundwater is located deep. Then they mark out an area that is 50 cm larger than the planned barn in each direction, remove the turf and make a sand and gravel backfill. Framing beams are laid on compacted crushed stone and floor joists are attached to them (treated with anti-septic tiles for direct contact of wood with the ground). That's all. No difficulties.

This is far from the best option: even with a low groundwater level and careful processing of the wood, the shed will not last long. If you are comfortable with this, you can do it this way.

Foundation for a frame shed

All types of pile or columnar foundations require the placement of single supports around the perimeter: always at the corners of the building and at the junction of lintels (partitions), if any are provided. The installation step of the supports depends on the size of the barn and what kind of logs you plan to use. The larger the span, the larger the section required for the logs.

For example, for a barn width of 2 meters, you can install only two rows of posts and the logs will be 150 * 50 mm (in extreme cases, 150 * 40 mm). If the width of the barn is 3 meters, then either install intermediate supports (posts, piles), or take a 150 * 70 mm board. Calculate what will be cheaper in your region and choose.

With a board width of 100 mm, the floor bends noticeably under your feet. So you have to make the installation step of the log about 30 cm. Then there is no deflection at all, or it is insignificant (depending on the weight).

The fastest way to make a foundation is on ready-made blocks: you can buy them or make them yourself. Under them, pits are dug a little larger in size than blocks. Sand is poured onto the bottom, compacted, then gravel, this is also compacted. The thickness of the compacted bedding is 20-30 cm. Blocks are installed on it, and the lower trim is mounted on the blocks.

If we are talking about a shallow strip foundation, then a trench is dug 40-60 cm deep relative to the ground level, the width of the strip is about 25 cm, and the trench itself must be wider by at least half a meter or more: the bottom is leveled and compacted. Crushed stone is poured onto the bottom and compacted again.

A frame is knitted from a 12-14 mm rod. Four ribbed longitudinal rods are connected using frames made of smooth rod 6-8 mm. The dimensions of the frames must be such that all reinforcement is located at a distance of at least 5 cm from the edges of the tape. For example, if the foundation is 40*25 cm, then the rods are tied into a structure with a rectangular section of 30*15 cm.

A connected frame is installed in the formwork, which is then poured at least M-200

Do-it-yourself wooden frame shed: step by step with photos

A frame barn measuring 6*3 meters was built. The roof is pitched, covered with ondulin. The height of the front wall is 3 meters, the back one is 2.4 m. Operation has shown that with such a difference in height, snow does not accumulate much (Len. region).

Standard FBS 600*300*200 blocks were used as the foundation for the barn. They are laid on a sand and gravel bedding 25 cm thick. A cut-off waterproofing is laid on top of the blocks - a layer of roofing felt, on bitumen mastic. A layer of “hydrotex” is also glued on top of the same mastic. This cake was made because the groundwater level was high, and it was necessary to ensure that the building was protected from dampness.

Start of construction of the barn. Waterproofing is laid on the foundation, a frame is placed on it, and a beam is attached to the frame

A beam with a cross section of 150*150 mm was laid on the waterproofing (all lumber was processed). Connected into half a tree, nailed - 100 * 4 mm. For those who are unfamiliar with carpentry, you can join the beams end-to-end, nail reinforced corners to the joints from the inside, and a mounting plate from the outside.

In this version, the frame was not attached to the blocks in any way. In regions with high wind loads this is unjustified. You can fasten it using studs: a hole of the same diameter (12-14 mm) is drilled under them, through the beam, into the block. A pin is driven into it, the bolt is then tightened with a wrench. To hide the cap, you can drill a hole for it.

The next step is to attach the floor joists. Installed on the edge of a 150*60 mm board. They are attached to the harness with special brackets of the appropriate size. Attached to 100*4 mm nails.

The logs were aligned along the upper edge of the strapping beam. Everything must be level, otherwise the floor will be difficult to lay. You may have to level it with a plane or redo it.

The frame was assembled using the “platform” technology: first the floor was laid, and the walls were mounted on it. The wall frame or part of it is assembled on the floor. In some cases, they are immediately sheathed from the outside if slab material is chosen for the sheathing. And already in this form (with or without casing) they are lifted, placed vertically and secured.

There is a second technology called “balloon”. The frame is mounted along it gradually: the corner posts of the frame are mounted on the frame or even directly on the blocks. They are leveled in all planes. A rope is pulled between them, along which the remaining racks are then placed. They are also nailed one at a time, fastening them together with slopes and temporary cross members.

In this case, the “platform” technology was chosen and 18 mm thick OSB was laid on the logs. In general, the floor can be made of boards, plywood (moisture resistant), OSB, etc. You will need 20 boards, 13-15 mm plywood, but you need moisture resistant (OSB is moisture resistant by default).

Next, the assembly of the walls began. The frame is completely knocked down: the lower frame, the racks, the top frame. In this form, it is installed exactly along the edge of the strapping beam, aligned, reinforced with safety struts, stops, and slopes. It is nailed through the flooring to the trim beam. The nails were 200*4 mm.

To assemble the frame, 100*50 mm boards were used, the distance between the posts was 600 mm, the rafters were installed with the same spacing. The rafter system was assembled from 150*40 mm.

Window and door openings are reinforced - two boards are nailed, which are nailed together in a checkerboard pattern every 20 cm. The load here is greater, so reinforcement is required. There is a gate at one end for loading/unloading large items. Therefore, in this wall (you can see in the photo) there are only corner posts and reinforced ones - for fastening the sashes.

Since the roof is single-pitched, the rafter system is simple: boards that are selected for the rafters are laid on the edge. Their length is longer, since the roof overhang is necessary. It is usually 30-50 cm on each side. In this option, with a barn width of 3 meters, the length of the rafter legs (taking into account the slope) was 3840 mm.

They were nailed obliquely with nails - two on each side. It can be strengthened by installing corners: this will withstand even significant wind and snow loads.

The external walls were covered with OSB 9.5 mm thick.

The doors were installed and small steps were made.

The finishing touches were to install the wind board. The barn was then clapboarded and painted to match the rest of the buildings on the site. The barn was built with your own hands on a ready-made foundation in two weekends. Cladding and painting were done much later - almost a month later.

The final barn...beautiful

The unattractive foundation is covered with asbestos sheets cut to size. It turned out to be a beautiful barn.

Shed with a gable roof made of metal tiles

This barn was built alone. The construction is also frame: the cheapest way. In this case, the assembly method is “balloon” - gradual alignment of the racks. It all starts the same way: first we made columns for the foundation. Only this time they are brick.

As you can see, there are studs built into the corner posts. Holes are drilled in the strapping beam and it is put on studs. They can be done not only in corners, but also on intermediate posts: it will hold on more firmly.

This barn has a small porch, so a cross beam is installed at the required distance. And the wall will support it. Columns were also pre-made for it.

The logs can also be attached with a notch. Then a notch in the shape of the log is cut out in the strapping beam. In depth it should not exceed 30% of the thickness of the beam, so the joist is cut so that it is flush with the frame. This method is more labor-intensive.

Next, the frame was assembled: corner posts 100*100 mm, intermediate posts - 50*100 mm, the top frame and rafter system were assembled from the same board. The triangles at the top are reinforced with applied metal plates. Smaller plates were also attached at the junction of the upper frame beam and the racks. They were connected end-to-end without cutting, nailed on top and diagonally with nails. The plates reduced the likelihood of folding under lateral loads.

The frame was covered with OSB sheets - the most convenient size for construction. Subsequently, the walls will be finished with wood siding.

The sheathing, by the way, does not have to be made of plywood or OSB. You can attach the lining or board directly to the racks. But then, when assembling the frame, you need to install slopes: without the rigidity of the slab material, the building will be flimsy. If you don’t set the slopes, you can swing them by hand.

After installing the braces, you can fill the board, lining, block house, imitation timber - the choice is yours.

For those who are concerned about the appearance of the building, here are some ideas on how to make a barn beautiful in video format.

Video about building wooden sheds

The barn turned out to be beautiful, but not cheap. But it is decent in size, strong and in appearance no different from a house - it fits into the composition. Everything is shown/described in detail, there is one violation: the waterproofing under the metal tiles is laid vertically. Even with good gluing of the strips, sooner or later the water will make a path for itself. Otherwise, everything is correct.

In this case, the barn is built with your own hands on what is probably the cheapest foundation: concrete is poured into old tires. The frame stands on these “pillars”. Naturally, they need to be placed on a flat, reliable surface and they themselves must be at the same level. In terms of strength, the base will not be inferior to the best concrete blocks, and may even surpass them. Tires protruding from under the structure can be closed by making a step and subsequently placing flowers on it or using it for other needs. It will be even more practical.

Another video with a step-by-step illustration of the construction of a frame barn made of timber.

Drawings with dimensions

Several drawings to help you navigate the dimensions of the building. If necessary, adjust to your site or needs.

Shed with a pitched roof - drawing with a diagram of the arrangement of racks

Square barn - dimensions

When starting to build a summer house or their own home, probably everyone thought about making a utility block with their own hands.

A barn is a must-have item on any site; it can be used as a warehouse for tools and gardening equipment; compact equipment can be stored in the utility room, and some owners expand it with a summer kitchen, shower or bathroom, and organize a poultry house.

In the video in the article you can see the types of utility units and their use.

Currently, a building for a summer residence can be purchased in the form of a finished structure, assembled or disassembled, or you can build it yourself.

In order to choose the place where the utility unit will be located, you first need to understand for what purposes it will be used, based on this, determine its dimensions.

If you plan to equip a building for keeping poultry, small livestock, or a toilet, this means that the utility block must be located at a distance of at least 12 meters from the dwelling and at least 4 meters from the neighbors.

If the barn is equipped for a shower, it means that the building and the neighboring plot will be 1 meter from each other, and the distance between the utility block and the house will be 8 meters.

It is better if the utility block at the dacha is universal, in which you can place a bathroom and shower on the edges, and make a room for household needs in the middle.

If your plot is limited in area, consider as an option the construction of a multi-storey utility block with a cellar in the basement and a summer kitchen on the second floor.

What to build a utility block from?

Having decided on the location of the shed at the dacha, think about what material you will build the outbuildings from: wood, metal profiles, foam blocks. Perhaps it will be combined.

The construction of a utility block from corrugated sheets has recently become very popular.

By choosing this material, you will get quick installation of the structure, long-term use - the corrugated sheets are lightweight, have an anti-corrosion coating and different colors.

In the countryside, to build a shed, they often use the frame method, since it is quite simple.

Wooden blocks are used as a frame, from which a utility block is erected, and then covered with sheets of corrugated sheets. The wooden frame can be replaced with a metal profile frame.

The instructions for building a shed from corrugated sheets consist of the following steps:

• foundation;
• base;
• frame;
• walls and roof;
• insulation and finishing.

Laying the foundation of the building

Having decided on the location and material, you can proceed directly to construction, that is, lay the foundation of the utility block.

First you need to make markings and mark the placement of pillars (pipes) in the corners and in the center of long walls along the perimeter of the future building.

We remove a layer of soil about 20 centimeters, fill half of the hole with sand (10 centimeters in depth), compact it thoroughly, forming a foundation.

We are preparing places for the pillars. We dig holes 1 meter deep and compact the bottom of each hole with a mixture of sand and fine gravel, creating a foundation.

We install the pipes, check the level to ensure there are no distortions, and fill the voids with sand. And fill it with cement.

First, fill the hollow part of the pipes by about one-third with cement and raise it slightly. Next, fill the remaining part of the pillars with cement.

To secure the pipes more firmly, you can use reinforcement by installing it in the base of the corner posts and filling it with cement.

The foundation of the utility block must dry out, this takes approximately 2 weeks. During this time, it is necessary to protect it from sunlight, and periodically moisten the sandy base cushion.

Assembling the base of the utility unit

While the foundation of the outbuilding is drying, you can begin to assemble the frame frame of the shed, starting from its base - the frame.

We assemble wooden blocks at least 15 centimeters thick into a 6x3 meter rectangle. We fix them together with self-tapping screws, additionally using the half-tree method, which is shown in the photo.

Photo of beam fastening.

The foundation and frame have a layer between them. Typically, roofing felt is used as a building material, the ends of which are bent inward to prevent water from collecting.

We treat everything with an antiseptic to protect against moisture, mold, and insects. Drying oil can be used as an antiseptic by covering the surface in two layers.

We reinforce the base with three transverse logs, placing them at the same distance from each other.

Building a barn frame

To make a barn, or rather, its frame, we will need wooden beams 10 and 15 centimeters thick.

We assemble the structure, starting from the ends, not forgetting about the window openings if you plan to install windows.

We screw the vertical posts to the base with self-tapping screws, connecting the beams together with steel corners.

To fix the frame, we add 2-4 vertical beams on each side, and for rigidity we install oblique strips between them.

Where the windows will be located (usually on the end walls in the middle), we install vertical jumpers between the middle beams, creating a window opening from them.

To make a doorway, we place separate vertical bars for it in the middle of the wall at a distance of 85 centimeters from each other.

The horizontal jumper is located at least 2 meters.

If the roof is sloping, the height of the vertical beams will accordingly differ at the front and rear walls; for the end walls, in this case, racks of different heights are used, cut at an angle at the top.

For a utility unit consisting of several sections, additional partitions are installed, and doorways are formed depending on the expected number of doors.

Examples of sectional utility units are shown in the following video story.

To make it easier for you to assemble the frame, draw a construction diagram. Drawings will greatly simplify construction work.

Assembly of rafters and roofing

The rafters are fastened with self-tapping screws, and the holes must be drilled in advance - this will avoid cracks. On the beams, additional cuttings must be made at the fastening points.

We lay the rafters on the frame, decorate the overhangs and cornices using an edged board.

Floorboards can be laid both before and after the rafters are installed. When attaching boards to the transverse joists, do not forget to use a level so that the floor is not deformed; it is better to use self-tapping screws of the “counting” type.

Important! To temporarily fasten the beams together, use regular nails before finally connecting the parts with self-tapping screws.

The future shed must be completely treated with an antiseptic, and only after this can the roof be covered and the framing of the frame begin.

We make a roof, walls, insulate the barn

When forming a roof, remember that it requires a mandatory waterproofing layer. If you plan to cover the roof with wooden boards, then you can safely use traditional roofing felt.

The roof can be covered with euro slate, corrugated sheets, or metal tiles. In this case, roofing felt can be replaced with plastic film.

How to sheathe the roof and make a waterproofing layer, see the following video story.

The walls can be sheathed with sheets of chipboard, corrugated board, clapboard, chipboard sheets. Always start from the front wall from the bottom up. The building is insulated with polystyrene foam or glass wool.

The inside of the barn is lined with plywood and boards; corrugated sheets are rarely used for interior decoration.

The utility block is ready, all that remains is to connect it with electricity and make sockets. Install cabinets, shelves, and other furniture at your discretion.

The first building that appears on a new summer cottage is, of course, a barn, large and roomy. At first, until the bare territory of the dacha is “overgrown” with full-fledged outbuildings, a house, a summer kitchen and a garage, a simple shed with a pitched roof will long remain the only shelter for equipment, building materials and dacha property.

Which type of shed to choose for your summer cottage?

Depending on the plans for the future development of the suburban area, the availability of free time and money, the problem of utility room on a suburban area can be solved in several ways:

• Hire a team and build a permanent shed from brick or foam block, with a pitched roof and a basement;
• Pour a concrete foundation for the future building with your own hands, buy a five-ton railway container and install it on your summer cottage instead of a barn;
• Build an ordinary barn with a pitched roof, 3x6 in size, from timber and boards, as in the photo.

Of course, experienced summer residents with experience will without hesitation cast their votes in favor of the last option; this is the most balanced and thoughtful decision.

Advice! To immediately build a shed from foam blocks on a “clean” site is not correct from a planning point of view; often outbuildings of this type have to be demolished or moved in favor of a summer house or garage.

In addition, the construction of stone, prefabricated, panel sheds, as well as the purchase of a container, will require an order of magnitude greater investment and time than is necessary for a wooden building with a pitched roof and a simple foundation. The main thing is that, at considerable expense, there are no tangible advantages over a lean-to wooden shed measuring 3x6.

Optimal design of a 3x6 wooden shed

The most difficult element of a homemade shed is its roof. Choose a pitched roof for your shed, you can’t go wrong. Even experienced craftsmen prefer to install pitched roofs on barns; they are not as beautiful, but easier to build and more reliable in operation. Moreover, you can make a shed roof with your own hands step by step even with minimal construction experience.

The only mandatory condition is the correct orientation of the pitched roof and the entire shed building relative to the wind rose in order to reduce the risk of rainwater flowing under the upper overhang and gables of the roof:

1. The design of the barn, dimensions 3x6 m, with a pitched roof is shown in the drawing;
2. The construction is carried out on a simple columnar foundation of 12 supports. A standard cinder block is used as the material for the pillars, but it is better to cast the supports from concrete in the formwork;
3. The basis of a lean-to barn is a frame made of boards and timber, the dimensions of the structure are 3x6 meters, with a ceiling height of 2 m and the highest point of the rafters of 2.7 m;
4. The shed roof is made according to the classical scheme, on hanging rafters with stuffed sheathing boards and a flat roof. As a roofing covering, you can use corrugated sheeting, ondulin, or make a two-layer version from rolled material, for example, roofing felt.

The construction will be very simple and easy; if you assemble the foundation correctly, the wooden frame box with a pitched roof can easily withstand winds of 18-25 m/s. If there are no strong winds in the area in which the shed is planned to be installed, then when building walls you can limit yourself to vertical drains from boards and timber, as in the drawing. For open areas, it is recommended to strengthen the vertical load-bearing supports with side struts, as in the photo.

The same applies to the design of a pitched roof. For a quiet area, you can build a pitched roof without using ceiling beams, but in this case, the upper frame of the walls and the mauerlat will need to be supported with additional vertical supports made of timber. For windy areas, a pitched roof must be reinforced with floor beams and supports in the middle of the rafters.

We build a barn with a pitched roof with our own hands

• For the frame, material with a cross section of 50x150mm - 14 pcs., 25x100 - 23 pcs., 50x100 - 19 pcs.;
• For the floor, boards measuring 25x100 mm - 27 pcs.;
• For the sheathing and roof supports, 43 boards with a section of 25x100 mm are required.

All joints and connections are made with black carpentry screws 50 mm, 70 mm and 110 mm. To reduce the cost of construction, you can use ordinary nails and construction angles, but such savings are not always justified.

Making a foundation for a 3x6 shed

After choosing a site for building a shed, you will need to plan and remove soil on an area of ​​at least 3x6 m in size. It makes no sense to make a larger building area. To prevent vegetation from pestering you, the cleared space can be covered with salt and sand.

After marking the location of the supports, at the installation points of the pillars we dig 12 holes, 15 cm deep and the size of a standard cinder block. At the bottom of the mini-pits we pour a 5 cm layer of a mixture of crushed stone and sand, after which we lay out columnar supports from cinder blocks using masonry mortar with the addition of PVA.

Before laying out, you will need to pull horizontal cords, along which you can control the height of each support, so that the entire supporting surface of the pillars is in the same horizontal plane.

After a day, you can install the strapping beam. All corner joints and T-shaped mortises are made with the ends “half-timbered”, each connection is reinforced with self-tapping screws screwed into the beam at different angles.

Assembling the frame and pitched roof

At the next stage, you will need to install load-bearing vertical posts; they are highlighted in orange in the drawing. Next, we sew up the floor and lay the rafters of the pitched roof.

We make the central load-bearing racks from 50x100 boards, for the rear wall you will need to cut three 220 mm racks, for the front wall - four 250 mm racks. We first fix each support on the lower frame with one self-tapping screw, then set the exact horizontal position according to the building level and additionally fasten it with small half-meter struts, as in the photo.

After all the racks are installed, we strengthen them with additional temporary struts and tie the upper tier of the frame under the future pitched roof. To give the entire structure of the barn additional rigidity, before assembling the elements of the pitched roof, it is necessary to cover the floor with a tongue-and-groove board.

Next, all installed elements, floor boards, rafters, sheathing material, side posts, lower and upper trim must be treated with an antiseptic and preservative. During the time it takes to assemble the rafters and roof of the pitched roof, the procedure must be repeated twice.

For the upper overhang of a pitched roof, installation of rafters and sheathing, you will need to secure an additional horizontal beam of the mauerlat, as in the diagram.

The cutting of the seat on the rafter beam is carried out according to the markings or according to a prepared template. After installing and leveling the position of each beam, it is recommended to fill the space between the beams with short boards; they will fix the rafter from horizontal displacement and at the same time strengthen the base of the pitched roof.

Roofing and finishing works

At the final stage, we sew up the rafters of the pitched roof with a sheathing board. If bituminous materials are used for the roof of the barn - flexible tiles and roofing felt, additional OSB sheets will need to be laid on the boards or the sheathing will need to be hammered solid with wooden clapboard.

The easiest way to cover a pitched roof is with corrugated sheeting. The metal surface will withstand any disasters that may occur in a summer cottage, and laying and fastening roofing material is much easier and faster than euro-slate or roofing felt. A polyethylene film is laid as waterproofing, the edges of which will be released from under the awnings and nailed to the top edge of the wooden walls of the barn.

Laying the roof on a pitched roof begins with the bottom left sheet, as in the diagram. Each element is joined to the previous one in a row in an overlap of two waves, an overlap of 15-20 cm is made on the bottom sheet. The overlap areas, the lower and upper edges must be pierced with roofing nails with a silicone washer.

Wind strips are nailed to the sides of the roofing pie, protecting the pitched roof from water flow and gusts of wind. We nail a similar strip for installing a drainage gutter under the lower overhang. We protect the upper overhang of a pitched roof with a screen made of two wooden planks.

The assembled frame of a shed, as a rule, is not insulated for the winter, so lining, ordinary edged boards or OSB sheet panels can be used as a material for lining the walls. To install the cladding, you will need to install additional vertical slats and struts on the walls. The joints and cracks between the OSB boards and the edged boards must be blown out with polyurethane foam, excess polyurethane foam must be cut off and painted over with weather-resistant paint.

Conclusion

The selected version of a shed with a pitched roof, measuring 3x6 m, can last up to 15 years without repair, provided that protective paint and varnish materials are chosen correctly. This design has one undeniable advantage - a shed made of timber with a pitched roof can be relatively easily disassembled and moved to a new location after a summer house or a new shed made of foam blocks is built.